Pathfinder Wiki - User contributions [en]

AY Honors/Winter Camping/Answer Key

2024-11-19T18:44:04Z

David Delafield:

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===Clothing=== 
* Several thin layers of synthetic clothing.
* Wind-proof shell, such as a parka.
* Thin, synthetic socks with thick, wool socks over them.
* Waterproof boots, such as Mukluks, or rubber boots. Avoid steel-toed or leather boots.
* Gaiters to keep snow out of your boots.
* Wind-proof mittens over wool gloves.
* Wind-proof pants over wool or fleece pants. Do ''not'' wear jeans.
* Down-filled vest.
* Warm headgear. Your body loses most of its heat through the head, so keep it insulated!

===Gear=== 
* Sleeping bag, rated for the expected temperatures
* Sleeping mat made of closed cell foam will protect the camper from the cold ground. It should be considered essential for cold weather. They roll up about 6 inch diameter.
* Compass, map, and flashlight. It is illegal to venture into some areas without these essential items!
* Knife
* Personal toiletries
* First aid kit
* Small tents are easier to heat than large ones (and your body is the furnace - see requirement 6 for more information).
* Sled, snowshoes, or cross-country skis.
* Rope
* Camping stove - make sure your stove will work in cold temperatures. Propane, butane, and alcohol stoves can be difficult (or impossible) to light at low temperatures. Wood-fueled camping stoves such as the [http://www.trailstove.com/ Trailstove] or [http://www.littlbug.com/index.htm Littlebug stove] are strongly advised.
* Matches
* Cooking gear and utensils.
* Dining sets (plate, cup, cutlery).
* Whistle (one for each member of the expedition).


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{{:AY Honors/Maintaining body warmth}}


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Camp on the snow or on bare ground. Camping on snow leaves almost no environmental impact. Be mindful of animal tracks. You do not want to pitch camp on a trail used by animals - that would cut them off from their source of food or water.


Cold air sinks, so you want to avoid low ground. Ridges and mountaintops are exposed to the wind, so you will want to avoid those as well. If camping on a slope, the tent opening should be positioned so that it faces neither downhill nor uphill. In the evening as the sun sets and the air at the higher elevations cools, it will sink, creating a breeze blowing down from the mountain top. In the morning as the air at the lower elevations is heated by the sun, it will rise, creating a breeze blowing towards the mountain top. Though this air is warmer than the air at the top of the mountain, it is still quite cold, so you do not want your tent door facing it.


Avoid areas prone to avalanches. Look around for evidence of avalanche debris from the current season (chunks of disturbed snow) or from previous seasons (downed trees).


Consider where the sun will rise in the morning, and where the first light from it will fall. It would be a pity if you pitched your tent in the shadow of a mountain peak, while 100 meters away is s spot that will receive sunlight an hour earlier.


Choose a site with a nearby source of water. You might have to break through some ice to get to it, but once that's done, you will not want to haul it any farther than necessary. Water is heavy!


Watch for tree limbs, and do not camp beneath snow laden branches. The branches will either drop snow and ice on your tent, or they may even break off themselves.


Know and practice Leave No Trace 7 Principles: 1) Plan ahead and prepare. 2) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. 3) Dispose of waste properly. 4) Leave what you find. 5) Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire). 6) Respect wildlife. 7) Be considerate of other visitors. © 1999 by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: www.LNT.org.


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The difficulty posed when pitching a tent in winter conditions is in anchoring the tent to the ground. Winter winds tend to be stronger than summer winds, so securely anchoring the tent is even more important. Meanwhile, the ground is frozen, making it difficult to drive stakes into it, or it is buried beneath several inches of snow.


If pitching a tent in snow, first stomp down an area as large as the tent. If the ground is not level, you can move snow from the high side to the low side, and add more snow from elsewhere to level it out. Pack it down as well as you can, and immediately smooth it out. Fluffy mounds of snow have a strange way of turning into bumpy chunks of ice very quickly, and they are exceedingly uncomfortable to sleep on.


Then lay the tent out, and anchor it before erecting the poles. As soon as you raise the tent, it will be susceptible to being swept away by the wind, and that is the reason for anchoring it before raising it. To anchor it, fill a bag with snow, ice, or rocks, tie it to the tent's anchor point, and bury it in the snow. Then pack the snow down firmly around the bag. Be sure to retrieve the bags when you break camp.


In deep snow, you can also excavate a kitchen by digging out a small area and building up walls with the snow you scoop out of the kitchen hole. Dig a path from the kitchen to the tents, and build snow chairs and tables too if you want. By submerging your kitchen below the snow, you get both your fire and your cook out of the wind. If you make it big enough to eat in, you get yourself and your dining companions out of the wind too.


If pitching a tent on bare ground, you can try to drive stakes into it, but if it is too frozen to allow this, you can again turn to anchoring the tent to weighted bags. Fill the bags with as many rocks as they will hold, and then pile more rocks on top of them. You can also tie the anchor points to fallen logs, but you will need to move the logs close to the tent for this to work well.


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The key to eating on a winter camping is to provide lots of calories. If you are snowshoeing or cross country skiing, you will need at least double your normal caloric intake. Furthermore, you need to be aware that calories are what fuels your body's furnace, and this internal furnace is what generates the heat that your clothing traps. The body metabolizes calories to generate heat, so it needs something to work with.


That said, it is also important to eat a balanced diet. Be sure your menu contains plenty of vitamins and minerals and draws from all the food groups (Meat and beans, fruits, vegetables, grains, and dairy). There is no need to eat like a pauper on a camp out, and indeed, many outdoorsmen find the meals to be the most satisfying aspect of winter camping. In a person's normal, sedentary life, excessive calories need to be carefully avoided, and this often means skipping dessert, sweets, or fatty foods. Not so on a winter camp out! You will ''need'' those calories, so pour them on! (Just be sure to back off again when you return to your sedentary ways.)


Winter camping also affords the opportunity to bring along foods that would normally spoil for lack of refrigeration. If the temperature is going to stay below {{units|4°C|40°F}}, you can bring anything with you that requires refrigeration. If you are expecting the temperature to stay below freezing, you can bring frozen foods with you. If you are snowshoeing or skiing into the wilderness, you can cram all that extra food onto a sled and drag it behind you. It's easier to drag a sled than it is to shoulder a backpack, and you can carry a lot more weight too.


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Though snow is a form of water, it would be foolish to rely on eating still frozen snow to provide adequate hydration, especially when spending an extended period of time in the cold. Rapidly consuming a large quantity of snow can lower the body temperature, leading to chills at best, hypothermia and death at worst. Consuming the occasional handful of snow while physically active and hiking on the trail will not provide adequate water, and will not cause hypothermia.

That said, snow is still a great source of drinking water, so long as it is melted first. If the only water you have in the pot is snow or ice, any liquid water you create will evaporate, disappear, leaving an air pocket behind. Without the cooling effect of water on the bottom of the pot there is nothing to conduct the heat away from your pot. A camp stove can easily burn a hole in aluminum pots, or scorch the inside (which will impart a bad taste to the water). The solution is to always save the last of your water from your bottle to accelerate the melting process. Consider keeping your bottle in an inside pocket near your skin. Your body heat will prevent it from freezing.

Pack snow into a pot and put it on the camp stove. Add {{units|250 ml|1 cup}} of liquid water to the pot of snow before heating it. Carefully stir the water into the snow to create slushy ice water consistency that covers the bottom of the pot. This layer of icy/slushy water protects your pot. Continue stirring and adding snow to your pot until the desired volume of water is achieved.

The necessity to purify snow is debated. Snow in urban areas, in regions with poor air quality, from near roadways or other pollution sources should be avoided. Fresh newly fallen snow collected in open areas is your best choice. Bringing the water to a quick boil will remove most biological concerns and provide the base for hot drinks!


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# Do not embark on a winter camping expedition unless you have adequate equipment and provisions and are in good physical condition.
# Never light a fire inside a tent unless the tent has been specifically designed for fire. ''Most tents are '''not''' designed for this purpose. ''
# Do not camp alone - use the buddy system. Frequently check your buddy for signs of frostbite and hypothermia.
# Allow plenty of time to set up camp before it gets dark, especially if you plan to build a shelter from snow.
# Check current conditions and know the weather forecast before setting out.
# Always let someone outside your group know your itinerary - where you will go, what route you will take, and when you expect to return. Get a permit when camping in the back country and register with the ranger.
# Wear a brightly colored outer layer so that you can be easily seen by other members of your party. This is essential if a snow storm blows in.
# Do not overestimate the capabilities of your group.
# Do not underestimate the dangers of winter conditions.
# Use common sense at all times.


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It is best to not become stranded without equipment in the first place. Never venture into the wilderness unless you are prepared for winter conditions.


The most important action a person can take if stranded in winter conditions - with equipment or without - is to get to a shelter or build one. Most wilderness fatalities are a result of exposure to the elements - in other words, hypothermia. If you are on skis, you may be able to ski to safety, but allow at least an hour before darkness falls to begin looking for shelter.


If you are in a vehicle, stay with it. It makes an excellent shelter. If the vehicle gets buried in snow, do not run the engine, as this can force deadly carbon monoxide inside. It is better to shut off the engine and keep the doors and windows closed than to go outside and dig the car out. If the car gets buried in snow, it will add a layer of insulation and keep the inside warmer.


If in a snowy area without a vehicle, dig a snow cave. If in a forested area with a little snow, find a fallen tree and scoop the snow away from it, building a snow wall with the removed snow, and using the fallen tree as another wall. Often, a large fallen tree will raise a rootwad which provides an excellent starting point for building a shelter. First, the rootwad can be as high as {{units|2.5 meters|eight feet}} tall, and second, it will create a depression in the ground from whence it lifted its roots.


If in an area with no snow build a debris hut by piling up tree branches leaving a hollow space in the center of the pile. Cover the branches with leaf litter, dead grass, sod, and moss to keep the wind out and to provide insulation. Make your shelter as small as you can comfortably fit inside. This will create a smaller space to keep warm with your body heat. Lay branches on the ground to provide a layer of insulation underneath you. If available, use small pine branches over the larger ones to create a softer cushion, or a layer of leaves. The more you can put between you and the heat robbing ground the better.


If you can find a cave, take shelter inside that.


If you are able to light a fire without equipment do that as soon as your shelter is ready, ''but not before''. Shelter is more important than fire, and it is imperative that you keep your priorities straight in a survival situation. A fire will greatly increase your odds of survival, as you will then have an external source of heat, and the fire will help attract a rescuer.


However you decide to provide yourself with shelter, stay put and wait for rescue. They ''will'' find you, and if you have conserved your energy and found (or built) a shelter, they will find you alive. You can help any rescuers find you by leaving some sort of indication of your presence near your chosen shelter, such as a bright article of clothing securely tied to a pole.


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===Frostbite=== 
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Frostbite}}
===Hypothermia===
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Hypothermia}}
===Snow Blindness===
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Snow blindness}}
===Dehydration===
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Dehydration}}


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We assume that this means the temperature should be below 49°F, which is 9.4°C. Below 40°F (4.4°C) is also acceptable.


Bring a thermometer with you on all your camp outs. If the temperature drops below 50°F, you can count that. If you wake up in the morning and find frost on the grass or on your tent, that counts too.


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Again, you should bring a thermometer on all your campouts. If you wake up in the morning and find frost on the tent or on the grass, that counts as a below freezing night.


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We assume that an igloo, snow cave, or quinzhee would also qualify. This portion of the requirement is there so that the winter camper does not try to count a night in a cabin, recreational vehicle, or pop-up camper (or the Hilton) as a winter camping night.


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==References== 
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User talk:David Delafield

2023-03-04T18:12:49Z

David Delafield: /* Winter Camping */

{{bigwelcome|-[[User:Jomegat|Jomegat]] ([[User talk:Jomegat|talk]]) 00:58, 31 March 2022 (UTC)}}

==Winter Camping==
Hi David,

Thank you for your contributions to the Winter Camping honor. As is my practice, I did an Internet search to make sure that the material uploaded here does not violate copyright protections. I found that the material you posted already exists on Quizlet, but I've not been able to find any blanket copyright information covering material uploaded by Quizlet users.

However, it is reasonable to assume that the person who uploaded the material to Quizlet (Brodypb) holds the copyright. In order for us to host that material, you need to contact Brodypb and get permission to use it, or present evidence that by hosting that material here, we are not in violation of Brodypb's copyright.

The only other option is to rewrite the material using your own words, or remove it.

Thanks for your cooperation and understanding. --[[User:Jomegat|Jomegat]] ([[User talk:Jomegat|talk]]) 20:52, 29 December 2022 (UTC)

:Haha... Now that I've taken a look with fresher eyes, I think Brodypb copied this from our site instead. I know it's not obvious, but the correct approach would have been to edit [[AY Honors/First aid/Frostbite]]. That page is included in Winter Camping as well as in several other honors, so updating it there would have had a more universal application. If I can figure out what your edits are, I'll move them to that page. Thanks for contributing to the wiki. We very much do appreciate it. --[[User:Jomegat|Jomegat]] ([[User talk:Jomegat|talk]]) 22:29, 13 January 2023 (UTC)
::I think I ferreted out all the changes you made. You might want to double check my work. Thanks again! --[[User:Jomegat|Jomegat]] ([[User talk:Jomegat|talk]]) 23:27, 13 January 2023 (UTC)

Very happy that you are able to track down source materials. No idea who Brodypb is, but evidently he is mining for information. As an outdoor educator at Burman University in Canada my brain is full of stuff, and it would be easy to accidentally transfer something in without full awareness of sourcing. But I am committed to doing things the correct way, thanks for the guidance.

AY Honors/Winter Camping/Answer Key

2022-12-29T03:34:09Z

David Delafield:

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{{honor_prerequisite|honor=Camp Craft}}


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===Clothing=== 
* Several thin layers of synthetic clothing.
* Wind-proof shell, such as a parka.
* Thin, synthetic socks with thick, wool socks over them.
* Waterproof boots, such as Mukluks, or rubber boots. Avoid steel-toed or leather boots.
* Gaiters to keep snow out of your boots.
* Wind-proof mittens over wool gloves.
* Wind-proof pants over wool or fleece pants. Do ''not'' wear jeans.
* Down-filled vest.
* Warm headgear. Your body loses most of its heat through the head, so keep it insulated!

===Gear=== 
* Sleeping bag, rated for the expected temperatures
* Sleeping mat made of closed cell foam will protect the camper from the cold ground. It should be considered essential for cold weather. They roll up about 6 inch diameter.
* Compass, map, and flashlight. It is illegal to venture into some areas without these essential items!
* Knife
* Personal toiletries
* First aid kit
* Small tents are easier to heat than large ones (and your body is the furnace - see requirement 6 for more information).
* Sled, snowshoes, or cross-country skis.
* Rope
* Camping stove - make sure your stove will work in cold temperatures. Propane, butane, and alcohol stoves can be difficult (or impossible) to light at low temperatures. Wood-fueled camping stoves such as the [http://www.trailstove.com/ Trailstove] or [http://www.littlbug.com/index.htm Littlebug stove] are strongly advised.
* Matches
* Cooking gear and utensils.
* Dining sets (plate, cup, cutlery).
* Whistle (one for each member of the expedition).


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{{:AY Honors/Maintaining body warmth}}


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Camp on the snow or on bare ground. Camping on snow leaves almost no environmental impact. Be mindful of animal tracks. You do not want to pitch camp on a trail used by animals - that would cut them off from their source of food or water.


Cold air sinks, so you want to avoid low ground. Ridges and mountaintops are exposed to the wind, so you will want to avoid those as well. If camping on a slope, the tent opening should be positioned so that it faces neither downhill nor uphill. In the evening as the sun sets and the air at the higher elevations cools, it will sink, creating a breeze blowing down from the mountain top. In the morning as the air at the lower elevations is heated by the sun, it will rise, creating a breeze blowing towards the mountain top. Though this air is warmer than the air at the top of the mountain, it is still quite cold, so you do not want your tent door facing it.


Avoid areas prone to avalanches. Look around for evidence of avalanche debris from the current season (chunks of disturbed snow) or from previous seasons (downed trees).


Consider where the sun will rise in the morning, and where the first light from it will fall. It would be a pity if you pitched your tent in the shadow of a mountain peak, while 100 meters away is s spot that will receive sunlight an hour earlier.


Choose a site with a nearby source of water. You might have to break through some ice to get to it, but once that's done, you will not want to haul it any farther than necessary. Water is heavy!


Watch for tree limbs, and do not camp beneath snow laden branches. The branches will either drop snow and ice on your tent, or they may even break off themselves.


Know and practice Leave No Trace 7 Principles: 1) Plan ahead and prepare. 2) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. 3) Dispose of waste properly. 4) Leave what you find. 5) Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire). 6) Respect wildlife. 7) Be considerate of other visitors. © 1999 by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: www.LNT.org.


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The difficulty posed when pitching a tent in winter conditions is in anchoring the tent to the ground. Winter winds tend to be stronger than summer winds, so securely anchoring the tent is even more important. Meanwhile, the ground is frozen, making it difficult to drive stakes into it, or it is buried beneath several inches of snow.


If pitching a tent in snow, first stomp down an area as large as the tent. If the ground is not level, you can move snow from the high side to the low side, and add more snow from elsewhere to level it out. Pack it down as well as you can, and immediately smooth it out. Fluffy mounds of snow have a strange way of turning into bumpy chunks of ice very quickly, and they are exceedingly uncomfortable to sleep on.


Then lay the tent out, and anchor it before erecting the poles. As soon as you raise the tent, it will be susceptible to being swept away by the wind, and that is the reason for anchoring it before raising it. To anchor it, fill a bag with snow, ice, or rocks, tie it to the tent's anchor point, and bury it in the snow. Then pack the snow down firmly around the bag. Be sure to retrieve the bags when you break camp.


In deep snow, you can also excavate a kitchen by digging out a small area and building up walls with the snow you scoop out of the kitchen hole. Dig a path from the kitchen to the tents, and build snow chairs and tables too if you want. By submerging your kitchen below the snow, you get both your fire and your cook out of the wind. If you make it big enough to eat in, you get yourself and your dining companions out of the wind too.


If pitching a tent on bare ground, you can try to drive stakes into it, but if it is too frozen to allow this, you can again turn to anchoring the tent to weighted bags. Fill the bags with as many rocks as they will hold, and then pile more rocks on top of them. You can also tie the anchor points to fallen logs, but you will need to move the logs close to the tent for this to work well.


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The key to eating on a winter camping is to provide lots of calories. If you are snowshoeing or cross country skiing, you will need at least double your normal caloric intake. Furthermore, you need to be aware that calories are what fuels your body's furnace, and this internal furnace is what generates the heat that your clothing traps. The body metabolizes calories to generate heat, so it needs something to work with.


That said, it is also important to eat a balanced diet. Be sure your menu contains plenty of vitamins and minerals and draws from all the food groups (Meat and beans, fruits, vegetables, grains, and dairy). There is no need to eat like a pauper on a camp out, and indeed, many outdoorsmen find the meals to be the most satisfying aspect of winter camping. In a person's normal, sedentary life, excessive calories need to be carefully avoided, and this often means skipping dessert, sweets, or fatty foods. Not so on a winter camp out! You will ''need'' those calories, so pour them on! (Just be sure to back off again when you return to your sedentary ways.)


Winter camping also affords the opportunity to bring along foods that would normally spoil for lack of refrigeration. If the temperature is going to stay below {{units|4°C|40°F}}, you can bring anything with you that requires refrigeration. If you are expecting the temperature to stay below freezing, you can bring frozen foods with you. If you are snowshoeing or skiing into the wilderness, you can cram all that extra food onto a sled and drag it behind you. It's easier to drag a sled than it is to shoulder a backpack, and you can carry a lot more weight too.


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Though snow is a form of water, it is foolish to eat it while it is still frozen, especially when spending an extended period of time in the cold. Eating snow can lower the body temperature, leading to chills at best, hypothermia and death at worst. That said, snow is still a great source of drinking water, so long as it is melted first. Pack snow into a pot and put it on the camp stove. Add {{units|250 ml|1 cup}} of liquid water to the pot of snow before heating it. If the only water you have in the pot is snow or ice, there will be air pockets. If there is nothing there to conduct the heat away from an aluminum pot, a stove can easily burn a hole in it, or scorch the inside (which will impart a bad taste to the water). The easiest way to get water for this purpose is to keep it in a bottle carried in an inside pocket near your skin. Your body heat will prevent it from freezing.


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# Do not embark on a winter camping expedition unless you have adequate equipment and provisions and are in good physical condition.
# Never light a fire inside a tent unless the tent has been specifically designed for fire. ''Most tents are '''not''' designed for this purpose. ''
# Do not camp alone - use the buddy system. Frequently check your buddy for signs of frostbite and hypothermia.
# Allow plenty of time to set up camp before it gets dark, especially if you plan to build a shelter from snow.
# Check current conditions and know the weather forecast before setting out.
# Always let someone outside your group know your itinerary - where you will go, what route you will take, and when you expect to return. Get a permit when camping in the back country and register with the ranger.
# Wear a brightly colored outer layer so that you can be easily seen by other members of your party. This is essential if a snow storm blows in.
# Do not overestimate the capabilities of your group.
# Do not underestimate the dangers of winter conditions.
# Use common sense at all times.


<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=9}}
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It is best to not become stranded without equipment in the first place. Never venture into the wilderness unless you are prepared for winter conditions.


The most important action a person can take if stranded in winter conditions - with equipment or without - is to get to a shelter or build one. Most wilderness fatalities are a result of exposure to the elements - in other words, hypothermia. If you are on skis, you may be able to ski to safety, but allow at least an hour before darkness falls to begin looking for shelter.


If you are in a vehicle, stay with it. It makes an excellent shelter. If the vehicle gets buried in snow, do not run the engine, as this can force deadly carbon monoxide inside. It is better to shut off the engine and keep the doors and windows closed than to go outside and dig the car out. If the car gets buried in snow, it will add a layer of insulation and keep the inside warmer.


If in a snowy area without a vehicle, dig a snow cave. If in a forested area with a little snow, find a fallen tree and scoop the snow away from it, building a snow wall with the removed snow, and using the fallen tree as another wall. Often, a large fallen tree will raise a rootwad which provides an excellent starting point for building a shelter. First, the rootwad can be as high as {{units|2.5 meters|eight feet}} tall, and second, it will create a depression in the ground from whence it lifted its roots.


If in an area with no snow build a debris hut by piling up tree branches leaving a hollow space in the center of the pile. Cover the branches with leaf litter, dead grass, sod, and moss to keep the wind out and to provide insulation. Make your shelter as small as you can comfortably fit inside. This will create a smaller space to keep warm with your body heat. Lay branches on the ground to provide a layer of insulation underneath you. If available, use small pine branches over the larger ones to create a softer cushion, or a layer of leaves. The more you can put between you and the heat robbing ground the better.


If you can find a cave, take shelter inside that.


If you are able to light a fire without equipment do that as soon as your shelter is ready, ''but not before''. Shelter is more important than fire, and it is imperative that you keep your priorities straight in a survival situation. A fire will greatly increase your odds of survival, as you will then have an external source of heat, and the fire will help attract a rescuer.


However you decide to provide yourself with shelter, stay put and wait for rescue. They ''will'' find you, and if you have conserved your energy and found (or built) a shelter, they will find you alive. You can help any rescuers find you by leaving some sort of indication of your presence near your chosen shelter, such as a bright article of clothing securely tied to a pole.


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===Frostbite=== 
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Frostbite}}

== '''Frostbite''' ==
Frostbite occurs when ice crystals form in the skin or deeper tissues after exposure to a temperature of 32°F (0°C) or lower. Depending upon the temperature, altitude, and wind speed, the exposure time necessary to produce frostbite varies from a few minutes to several hours.

The areas most commonly affected are the face and extremities. The symptoms of frostbite are progressive. Victims generally incur this injury without being acutely aware of it. Initially, the affected skin reddens and there is an uncomfortable coldness. With continued heat loss, there is a numbness of the affected area due to reduced circulation. As ice crystals form, the frozen extremity appears white, yellow-white, or mottled blue-white, and is cold, hard, and insensitive to touch or pressure. Frostbite is classified as superficial or deep, depending on the extent of tissue involvement.

=== '''Superficial Frostbite''' ===

In superficial frostbite the surface of the skin will feel hard or rubbery, but the underlying tissue will be soft, allowing it to move over bony ridges. On the exposed skin on the neck and face it is common to first notice patches that are white or waxy in appearance. This is evidence that only the skin and the region just below it are involved. Very little information is available in wilderness first aid training on the appearance of mid and dark toned skin that has been exposed to mild or superficial frostbite. General treatment for superficial frostbite is as follows:

# Take the victim indoors, or at a minimum, increase their shelter from the elements.
# Superficial frostbite around the head can typically be reversed quickly by sheltering from the elements with a scarf, hat, or even a gloved hand.
# Rewarm hands by placing them under the armpits, against the abdomen, or between the legs.
# Rewarm feet by placing them in the armpit or against the abdomen of the buddy.
# Gradually rewarm the affected area by warm water immersion (less than 104F or 40C), skin-to-skin contact
# Place hot water bottles into a dry sock/glove to avoid overheating skin.
# Never rub a frostbite area.

== Deep Frostbite ==

In deep frostbite, the freezing reaches into the deep tissue layers. There are ice crystals in the entire thickness of the extremity. The skin will not move over bony ridges and will feel hard and solid. The objectives of treatment are to protect the frozen areas from further injury, to rapidly thaw the affected area, and to be prepared to respond to circulatory or respiratory difficulties.

# Carefully assess and treat any other injuries first. Constantly monitor the victim’s pulse and breathing since respiratory and heart problems can develop rapidly. Be prepared to administer CPR if necessary.
# Do not attempt to thaw the frostbitten area if there is a possibility of refreezing. It is better to leave the part frozen until the victim arrives at a medical treatment facility equipped for long-term care. Refreezing of a thawed extremity causes severe and disabling damage.
# Treat all victims with injuries to the feet or legs as litter patients. When this is not possible, the victim may walk on the frozen limb, since it has been proven that walking will not lessen the chances of successful treatment as long as the limb has not thawed out.
# When adequate protection from further cold exposure is available, prepare the victim for rewarming by removing all constricting clothing such as gloves, boots, and socks. Boots and clothing frozen on the body should be thawed by warm-water immersion before removal.
# Rapidly rewarm frozen areas by immersion in water at 100°F to 105°F (38°C to 41°C). Keep the water warm by adding fresh hot water, but do not pour the water directly on the injured area. Ensure that the frozen area is completely surrounded by water; do not let it rest on the side or bottom of the tub.
# After rewarming has been completed, pat the area dry with a soft towel. Later it will swell, sting, and burn. Blisters may develop. These should be protected from breaking. Avoid pressure, rubbing, or constriction of the injured area. Keep the skin dry with sterile dressings and place cotton between the toes and fingers to prevent their sticking together.
# Protect the tissue from additional injury and keep it as clean as possible (use sterile dressings and linen).
# Try to improve the general morale and comfort of the victim by giving hot, stimulating fluids such as tea or coffee. Do not allow the victim to smoke or use alcoholic beverages while being treated.
# Transfer to a medical treatment facility as soon as possible. During transportation, slightly elevate the frostbitten area and keep the victim and the injured area warm. Do not allow the injured area to be exposed to the cold.

===Hypothermia===
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Hypothermia}}
===Snow Blindness===
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Snow blindness}}
===Dehydration===
{{:AY Honors/First aid/Dehydration}}


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We assume that this means the temperature should be below 49°F, which is 9.4°C. Below 40°F (4.4°C) is also acceptable.


Bring a thermometer with you on all your camp outs. If the temperature drops below 50°F, you can count that. If you wake up in the morning and find frost on the grass or on your tent, that counts too.


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Again, you should bring a thermometer on all your campouts. If you wake up in the morning and find frost on the tent or on the grass, that counts as a below freezing night.


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We assume that an igloo, snow cave, or quinzhee would also qualify. This portion of the requirement is there so that the winter camper does not try to count a night in a cabin, recreational vehicle, or pop-up camper (or the Hilton) as a winter camping night.


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==References== 
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AY Honors/Canoeing/Answer Key

2022-03-31T19:31:38Z

David Delafield:

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{{honor_prerequisite|category=Recreation|honor=Swimming - Intermediate}}


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This is much easier to do if the paddler gives up the idea of having dry feet. Wear a pair of sandals and wade right in. But it can also be managed without getting the feet wet. Slide the canoe's bow into the water and let the current (if there is one) push that end downstream. Hang onto the other end of the canoe (the stern) so that it does not get away. If two people are to enter the canoe, have the sternman stand with one foot on either side of the stern, steadying it with the knees. Then have the bowman enter the canoe from the right, by reaching over the canoe, grasping the left gunwale with the left hand, then setting the left foot in the center of the canoe (over the keel). Then the bowman grasps the right gunwale with the right hand and slowly shift bodyweight to the left foot, lifting the right foot over the gunwale. The bowman then carefully walks to the bow while holding onto the gunwales, finally taking position either on the bow seat, or kneeling in front of it. The bowman can then place the tip of the paddle blade into the ground (under water) to steady the canoe and keep it from floating off while the sternman enters.


The procedure for entering the canoe alone is much the same, except that the canoe will not be steadied by a companion. Concentrate on balance, and always keep your weight as centered over the keel as possible.
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It is far more difficult to enter a canoe from a dock or pier than from a beach. This is because the canoe will not sit on the bottom of the river or lake helping to steady it as people enter. Instead, paddlers must be very careful to keep their weight centered over the keel until firmly in position. Once the first person is in the boat, that person should assume a kneeling position with the knees spread as far apart as the canoe will allow. This will allow the person to easily and quickly shift his or her weight to either the left or the right to steady the canoe as the other paddler enters. The paddler should also grip the dock or pier firmly to keep the canoe from pushing away while the partner has one foot in the boat and the other on the dock.
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When landing on a beach, the bow usually drives into the bank first. The mistake most novices make at this point is to begin exiting the canoe while the stern is still upstream from the bow. Allow the current to push the stern past the bow so that the bow is facing upstream. This is what a river will want to do to the canoe anyhow, so it is better if you do it while you are still firmly seated.The bowman is usually the first to exit, by stepping over the gunwale onto shore (or into the water if that's not an issue). Once the bowman's weight is out of the canoe, the bow will rise and the canoe will likely not be in contact with the river bottom anymore. The wise sternman will take a few strokes to get the bow back onto the bank, and the helpful bowman will assist by pulling the canoe gently as well. Do NOT haul the canoe out of the water with the sternman still inside. This puts excessive strain on the keel and can easily damage the canoe.
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As with entering a canoe, exiting into a pier is far more difficult that exiting onto a beach. Position the canoe alongside the pier and hold firmly onto it. Place both hands on the pier and gently shift your weight to them, trying to not push the boat away as you do so. Lift your weight onto the pier, turn around, and sit. Then swing the legs out of the boat.


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In the diagrams below, the bow is at the top and the stern is at the bottom. The hashed lines show the path of the paddle, with the hashes themselves indicating the orientation of the paddle's blade. The unhashed directional arrows show how the canoe will move when the stroke is executed.
<gallery>
Image:Canoe stroke bow.png|Bow Stroke
Image:Canoe stroke diagonal draw.png|Diagonal draw
Image:Canoe stroke half sweep.png|Half sweep
Image:Canoe stroke j.png|J-Stroke
Image:Canoe stroke reverse half sweep.png|Reverse half sweep
Image:Canoe stroke push over.png|Push-over stroke
Image:Canoe stroke full sweep.png|Full sweep
Image:Canoe stroke combination draw j.png|Combination draw and J-stroke
</gallery>
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The bow stroke is executed by inserting the paddle into the water well ahead of oneself with the blade perpendicular to the keel. The paddle is then pulled through the water parallel to the keel. This stroke is most often executed by the bowman, but can be used by the sternman as well.
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The diagonal draw is a stroke used from the bow seat for gradual steering. It is made by inserting the paddle into the water well ahead and off to the side of the boat, then drawing the paddle towards the seat. A "regular" draw is similar, except that the paddle is inserted even with the seat instead of ahead.
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A half sweep is used from either the bow or the stern to turn the canoe in the direction opposite to the paddle. In other words, if the paddle is on the left, the half sweep will turn the canoe to the left and vice versa.


When executing the half sweep from the bow position, the paddle is inserted into the water near the very front of the canoe with the power face of the paddle parallel to the keel. The paddle is then ''swept'' outward until it is straight out from the bow seat. The angle of power face is maintained perpendicular to the direction in which the paddle is drawn.


When executing the half sweep from the stern position, the paddle is inserted into the water straight out from the stern seat with the power face of the paddle perpendicular to the keel. The paddle is then swept around to the stern, and as when executed from the bow, the angle of power face is maintained perpendicular to the direction in which the paddle is drawn.
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The J-stroke is so named because, when done on the port side, it resembles the letter J. It begins like a bow stroke, but towards the end the paddle is rotated and pushed away from the canoe with the power face of the paddle remaining the same throughout the stroke. This conveniently counteracts the natural tendency of the canoe to steer away from the side of the sternman's paddle.
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The reverse half sweep is a steering stroke executed from either the bow or the stern. It is executed in exactly the same fashion as the half sweep except in reverse.


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The push over stroke is more often called a pry. This stroke is designed to move the canoe sideways. It is executed by inserting the paddle into the water with the power face pointing away from the keel. The center of the paddle is rested on the gunwale while the top of the paddle is pulled toward the center of the boat. As this is done, the blade should move away from the boat.
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A full sweep is another steering stroke that can be executed from either the bow or the stern. In both instances, the paddle is inserted into the water well ahead of the paddler with the power face parallel to the keel. The paddle is then swept through a 180° arc.


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The combination draw and J-stroke is exactly what it seems to be - a combination of a draw stroke followed by a J-stroke. This stroke is only executed from the stern and is used to gradually steer the canoe to the left if made on the left side of the canoe, or to the right if made from the right side of the canoe.


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===Paddling a straight course=== 
The easiest way to paddle a straight course while keeping the paddle on the same side of the canoe is for the sternman to use the J-stroke. The bowman can paddle from either side of the canoe using bow strokes. When paddling solo, it is best to sit in the bow seat with the canoe turned around so that the stern (the back of the canoe) becomes the front. By doing this, the paddler will be positioned closer to the middle of the canoe, because the bow seat is closer to the center than the stern seat. Again, the J-stroke should be used.
===Turning===
If paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman can effect a left turn by applying simple bow strokes. The canoe will turn left. To turn right while paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman applies reverse bow strokes while the bowman applies draw strokes. Both turns can also be effected with forward and/or reverse sweeps.

===Kneeling positions=== 
The benefit to kneeling in canoes has become less relevant in recent years. Newer designs, and specifically canoes designed for lake water, feature seats that are much lower and closer to the waterline than in previous years. In these canoes, it can be nearly impossible for adult size individuals to fit their feet/shoes beneath the seat and can lead to entrapment hazards during a capsize. The principle of lowering center of gravity should still be employed: extending legs forward to keep knees at level of hips or lower, utilizing foot braces or canoe packs to retain secure position in your seat.


If a persons feet/shoes can be easily placed under their seat while in a kneeling position, kneeling in a canoe can provide greater stability because it lowers the center of gravity. It also allows the paddler greater control over the canoe's side-to-side tilt because the weight can be quickly shifted to the left or to the right to counter tipping. When sitting, this is more difficult to do because shifting the weight from one buttock to the other does not have much effect.


The first kneeling position is to place both knees on the bottom of the canoe and rest the buttocks against the front edge of the seat. The second kneeling position is similar, except that only one knee is on the bottom - the other knee is raised and the foot is on the bottom of the boat (as if proposing marriage). The paddler may still lean against the front edge of the seat.


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First maneuver the rescue canoe such that it is perpendicular to the swamped canoe, with either the bow or the stern of the swamped canoe near the center of the rescue canoe. Turn the swamped canoe upside down (if it is not in this position already). One rescuer may then reach over the gunwales, take hold of the bow or stern of the swamped canoe and lift it onto the gunwale. The other rescuer should counterbalance the rescue canoe while this is being done to prevent the rescue canoe from swamping as well. This is done by having the rescuer shift his or her weight to the opposite side of the rescue canoe.


Once the bow or stern is resting on the gunwales, the swimmers should help by pushing the swamped canoe up onto the gunwales of the rescue canoe (so that the gunwales of both canoes are in contact). The rescuers will also draw it across. When the swamped canoe is centered on the gunwales of the rescue canoe, one rescuer will roll the swamped canoe right-side-up. The other rescuer will catch it as it rolls around. The keel of the rescued canoe will then be sitting on the gunwales of the rescue boat, and can then be slid back into the water.


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The rescuers then gently shove the canoe off their gunwales back into the water. Be careful not to hit the swimmers.


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The canoe is then turned parallel to the rescue canoe, and both rescuers will hold the gunwales of the two canoes firmly together. The swimmers may then re-enter the canoe from the opposite side (it is best for them to do this one at a time).


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The least risky way to jump out of a canoe is by jumping off the deck (that is, jumping off the bow to the front of the canoe, or jumping off the stern to the rear).


The paddler should then swim to the center of the canoe and grab the gunwales with both hands. The hands should be positioned about a shoulder-width apart. The paddler then lifts himself up, throwing the torso across the gunwales and getting as much body weight over the keel as possible. If possible, one hand should reach across the canoe to the opposite gunwale during this motion. With the belt-line over the near gunwale, the paddler may then swing his legs aboard.


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The Pathfinder should wear a swimsuit beneath an outer layer of clothing for this requirement.
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This is surprisingly difficult in some canoes, but can be accomplished by leaning the canoe over as far as possible, then standing on the gunwale. As soon as the gunwale dips below the surface of the water, capsizing will quickly follow.
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Swim alongside the canoe and lift the gunwale back above the surface. The canoe should not sink even when it's full of water.
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This is done just as described previously, except that the canoe is almost certain to ship more water. Don't worry about it. Once you get inside, it is very possible that both gunwales will still be submerged below the surface. It is sometimes possible to get some of the water out by lifting the bow or stern as high as you can while the canoe is still upside-down. Then with a quick motion, throw the canoe higher with a twisting motion to right it.
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Removing wet clothing is more difficult than it seems it should be. It tends to cling to the body. Wear a swimsuit that stays on under the outer layer. Choose loose clothing if possible. A shirt that buttons will be easier to get off than a pull-over. Jump back into the water, take hold of a rope tied to the bow (or a grab-loop), and swim until you are in shallow water.


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Once the canoe is in shallow water, turn it on its side and continue to haul it onto the beach. This will empty it of most water. If you attempt to haul it out of the water while it is still full, you will find that it is ''very'' heavy, and it may not even be possible for you to turn it over or move it. This is why it should be turned on its side or even upside-down. Once most of the water is out of the canoe, it is a simple matter to pull it onto shore.


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An excellent beginning point for the discussion of Safety Rules for Canoeing could begin with the legal requirements as mandated by your local jurisdiction.

In Canada, each boat must have on board the following:
# Properly fitted and Transport Canada approved PFD/person
# Sound signaling device (whistle or airhorn audible over a 500m distance)
# Bailer, minimum requirements (750ml capacity, 3.5" or 9cm diameter opening, metal or plastic construction)
# Bouyant heaving line (15m in length)

In Leadership/Guiding situations, the following Transport Canada guidelines also apply:
# Led or Guided excursion is defined as any organized non-familial group
# Safety briefing must be provided to all participants
# Complete float plan of your trip will be filed with a responsible person who remains on shore.
# If water temperatures are below 15C, a rewarming station and/or equipment must be immediately available throughout the entire canoe experience to protect against cold or immersion related injuries
# Leader or guide must ensure that all carried equipment is securely in place when the vessel is in motion
# A Marine specific or Occupational specific First Aid Kit must be carried by the group.

Please note there are additional requirements for canoes/kayaks/paddleboards that are traveling between dusk and dawn or out of sight of navigational markers. These could include lights, radar reflectors, and magnetic compasses.

ADDITION NEEDED: Standards for the USA should be added by someone more familiar with local legislation.

General Safety Guidelines:
# Wear a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) at all times.
# Do not drink alcohol while canoeing
# Paddle directly into or away from the wake made by power boats (broadside waves can easily capsize a canoe).
# Kneel in the bottom of the canoe in rough water. This increases the boat's stability by lowering its center of gravity, and it gives you better control of the canoe.
# Do not paddle in water that presents a greater challenge than your abilities. Do not be too embarrassed to admit that a rapid is too difficult for you. You won't be able to admit it if you drown.
# Do not paddle farther from shore than you can swim.
# Load the canoe properly so that it is balanced from bow to stern and from side to side.
# Stay away from low-head dams. They may look innocuous, but they are ''very'' dangerous. Do not approach them from upstream or from downstream.
# Never paddle alone.
# Do not paddle into tree branches, especially if they are underwater. Water will pass right through, but if you fall out of the canoe, you will be pinned against them. Moving water is very powerful. You are puny in comparison. Water moving through a hydro-electric dam can generate enough electricity to power a city (including subway trains). If water is powerful enough to move a train, it is powerful enough to hold you under water pinned to a tree branch.
# Do not stand in a canoe until you have sufficient skill and experience to do so. Many people would argue that you should ''never'' stand in a canoe, but if you have sufficient skill, standing will allow a better view of the river ahead. This can be crucial above a rapid. That said, most people do ''not'' have sufficient skill. As the instructor of this honor, it's up to you to decide how to teach this "rule."
# Don't be an idiot. If something looks dangerous, it probably is.

In event of capsize or Emergency:
# If you capsize in still water, stay with the canoe.
# If you capsize in swift current, try to get upstream relative to the canoe so that it will not pin you on a rock. A canoe full of water easily weighs {{units|1200 kg|2.3 tons}}, and if it pins you against a rock, you are ''not'' going to lift a 1200 kg canoe off yourself. The only other available option is to drown, and that is not a very attractive option at all.
# If you find yourself swimming in a rapid, roll onto your back and float with your feet going downstream first and your toes out of the water. This will prevent your foot from catching a rock and it getting trapped. Many people have drowned as a result of foot-entrapment.
# Exception to above rule: when potential exists to float into a submerged or partially submerged tree/logs, flip onto your belly, orient yourself head facing downstream, and AGGRESSIVELY swim forward, up, and over the tree or log.


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For both of these situations, duct tape is the paddler's best friend.
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Land the canoe on a beach, get it in the sun, flip it upside down. Dry the affected area as best you can with whatever you have. Let the sun do the rest. Apply a strip of duct tape to the outside of the hull, covering the hole completely. Then turn the boat right-side-up again, dry the inside of the hull around the hole, and cover it with duct tape as well.


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Find a straight tree branch about {{units|2.5 cm|an inch}} in diameter and {{units|60 cm|two feet}} long. Join the two halves of the paddle together as best you can, then position the tree branch along side it. Wrap the paddle shaft and the branch with several turns of duct tape, both above and below the break. Paddle gently.


Once back from your trip, a more permanent repair can be made. Sand your paddle down right to the wood above and below the break. Drill {{units|5cm|2 inches}} straight up into the center of the paddle shaft in both directions of the break. Cut the head off of a bolt the same diameter as your hole. Use a good quality marine epoxy to glue a 4" bolt in place in that hole. Wrap fiberglass cloth around the break and epoxy it in place. Now sand down the entire paddle and varnish. You will now have a strong lasting repair on your paddle. If the break was over where you grip the paddle, you may want to consider wrapping a thin twine around the shaft to make the grip even more comfortable, this process is called frapping or serving.


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==Reference== 
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AY Honors/Canoeing/Answer Key

2022-03-30T21:22:57Z

David Delafield:

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{{honor_prerequisite|category=Recreation|honor=Swimming - Intermediate}}


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This is much easier to do if the paddler gives up the idea of having dry feet. Wear a pair of sandals and wade right in. But it can also be managed without getting the feet wet. Slide the canoe's bow into the water and let the current (if there is one) push that end downstream. Hang onto the other end of the canoe (the stern) so that it does not get away. If two people are to enter the canoe, have the sternman stand with one foot on either side of the stern, steadying it with the knees. Then have the bowman enter the canoe from the right, by reaching over the canoe, grasping the left gunwale with the left hand, then setting the left foot in the center of the canoe (over the keel). Then the bowman grasps the right gunwale with the right hand and slowly shift bodyweight to the left foot, lifting the right foot over the gunwale. The bowman then carefully walks to the bow while holding onto the gunwales, finally taking position either on the bow seat, or kneeling in front of it. The bowman can then place the tip of the paddle blade into the ground (under water) to steady the canoe and keep it from floating off while the sternman enters.


The procedure for entering the canoe alone is much the same, except that the canoe will not be steadied by a companion. Concentrate on balance, and always keep your weight as centered over the keel as possible.
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It is far more difficult to enter a canoe from a dock or pier than from a beach. This is because the canoe will not sit on the bottom of the river or lake helping to steady it as people enter. Instead, paddlers must be very careful to keep their weight centered over the keel until firmly in position. Once the first person is in the boat, that person should assume a kneeling position with the knees spread as far apart as the canoe will allow. This will allow the person to easily and quickly shift his or her weight to either the left or the right to steady the canoe as the other paddler enters. The paddler should also grip the dock or pier firmly to keep the canoe from pushing away while the partner has one foot in the boat and the other on the dock.
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When landing on a beach, the bow usually drives into the bank first. The mistake most novices make at this point is to begin exiting the canoe while the stern is still upstream from the bow. Allow the current to push the stern past the bow so that the bow is facing upstream. This is what a river will want to do to the canoe anyhow, so it is better if you do it while you are still firmly seated.The bowman is usually the first to exit, by stepping over the gunwale onto shore (or into the water if that's not an issue). Once the bowman's weight is out of the canoe, the bow will rise and the canoe will likely not be in contact with the river bottom anymore. The wise sternman will take a few strokes to get the bow back onto the bank, and the helpful bowman will assist by pulling the canoe gently as well. Do NOT haul the canoe out of the water with the sternman still inside. This puts excessive strain on the keel and can easily damage the canoe.
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As with entering a canoe, exiting into a pier is far more difficult that exiting onto a beach. Position the canoe alongside the pier and hold firmly onto it. Place both hands on the pier and gently shift your weight to them, trying to not push the boat away as you do so. Lift your weight onto the pier, turn around, and sit. Then swing the legs out of the boat.


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In the diagrams below, the bow is at the top and the stern is at the bottom. The hashed lines show the path of the paddle, with the hashes themselves indicating the orientation of the paddle's blade. The unhashed directional arrows show how the canoe will move when the stroke is executed.
<gallery>
Image:Canoe stroke bow.png|Bow Stroke
Image:Canoe stroke diagonal draw.png|Diagonal draw
Image:Canoe stroke half sweep.png|Half sweep
Image:Canoe stroke j.png|J-Stroke
Image:Canoe stroke reverse half sweep.png|Reverse half sweep
Image:Canoe stroke push over.png|Push-over stroke
Image:Canoe stroke full sweep.png|Full sweep
Image:Canoe stroke combination draw j.png|Combination draw and J-stroke
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The bow stroke is executed by inserting the paddle into the water well ahead of oneself with the blade perpendicular to the keel. The paddle is then pulled through the water parallel to the keel. This stroke is most often executed by the bowman, but can be used by the sternman as well.
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The diagonal draw is a stroke used from the bow seat for gradual steering. It is made by inserting the paddle into the water well ahead and off to the side of the boat, then drawing the paddle towards the seat. A "regular" draw is similar, except that the paddle is inserted even with the seat instead of ahead.
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A half sweep is used from either the bow or the stern to turn the canoe in the direction opposite to the paddle. In other words, if the paddle is on the left, the half sweep will turn the canoe to the left and vice versa.


When executing the half sweep from the bow position, the paddle is inserted into the water near the very front of the canoe with the power face of the paddle parallel to the keel. The paddle is then ''swept'' outward until it is straight out from the bow seat. The angle of power face is maintained perpendicular to the direction in which the paddle is drawn.


When executing the half sweep from the stern position, the paddle is inserted into the water straight out from the stern seat with the power face of the paddle perpendicular to the keel. The paddle is then swept around to the stern, and as when executed from the bow, the angle of power face is maintained perpendicular to the direction in which the paddle is drawn.
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The J-stroke is so named because, when done on the port side, it resembles the letter J. It begins like a bow stroke, but towards the end the paddle is rotated and pushed away from the canoe with the power face of the paddle remaining the same throughout the stroke. This conveniently counteracts the natural tendency of the canoe to steer away from the side of the sternman's paddle.
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The reverse half sweep is a steering stroke executed from either the bow or the stern. It is executed in exactly the same fashion as the half sweep except in reverse.


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The push over stroke is more often called a pry. This stroke is designed to move the canoe sideways. It is executed by inserting the paddle into the water with the power face pointing away from the keel. The center of the paddle is rested on the gunwale while the top of the paddle is pulled toward the center of the boat. As this is done, the blade should move away from the boat.
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A full sweep is another steering stroke that can be executed from either the bow or the stern. In both instances, the paddle is inserted into the water well ahead of the paddler with the power face parallel to the keel. The paddle is then swept through a 180° arc.


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The combination draw and J-stroke is exactly what it seems to be - a combination of a draw stroke followed by a J-stroke. This stroke is only executed from the stern and is used to gradually steer the canoe to the left if made on the left side of the canoe, or to the right if made from the right side of the canoe.


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===Paddling a straight course=== 
The easiest way to paddle a straight course while keeping the paddle on the same side of the canoe is for the sternman to use the J-stroke. The bowman can paddle from either side of the canoe using bow strokes. When paddling solo, it is best to sit in the bow seat with the canoe turned around so that the stern (the back of the canoe) becomes the front. By doing this, the paddler will be positioned closer to the middle of the canoe, because the bow seat is closer to the center than the stern seat. Again, the J-stroke should be used.
===Turning===
If paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman can effect a left turn by applying simple bow strokes. The canoe will turn left. To turn right while paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman applies reverse bow strokes while the bowman applies draw strokes. Both turns can also be effected with forward and/or reverse sweeps.

===Kneeling positions=== 
The benefit to kneeling in canoes has become less relevant in recent years. Newer designs, and specifically canoes designed for lake water, feature seats that are much lower and closer to the waterline than in previous years. In these canoes, it can be nearly impossible for adult size individuals to fit their feet/shoes beneath the seat and can lead to entrapment hazards during a capsize. The principle of lowering center of gravity should still be employed: extending legs forward to keep knees at level of hips or lower, utilizing foot braces or canoe packs to retain secure position in your seat.


If a persons feet/shoes can be easily placed under their seat while in a kneeling position, kneeling in a canoe can provide greater stability because it lowers the center of gravity. It also allows the paddler greater control over the canoe's side-to-side tilt because the weight can be quickly shifted to the left or to the right to counter tipping. When sitting, this is more difficult to do because shifting the weight from one buttock to the other does not have much effect.


The first kneeling position is to place both knees on the bottom of the canoe and rest the buttocks against the front edge of the seat. The second kneeling position is similar, except that only one knee is on the bottom - the other knee is raised and the foot is on the bottom of the boat (as if proposing marriage). The paddler may still lean against the front edge of the seat.


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First maneuver the rescue canoe such that it is perpendicular to the swamped canoe, with either the bow or the stern of the swamped canoe near the center of the rescue canoe. Turn the swamped canoe upside down (if it is not in this position already). One rescuer may then reach over the gunwales, take hold of the bow or stern of the swamped canoe and lift it onto the gunwale. The other rescuer should counterbalance the rescue canoe while this is being done to prevent the rescue canoe from swamping as well. This is done by having the rescuer shift his or her weight to the opposite side of the rescue canoe.


Once the bow or stern is resting on the gunwales, the swimmers should help by pushing the swamped canoe up onto the gunwales of the rescue canoe (so that the gunwales of both canoes are in contact). The rescuers will also draw it across. When the swamped canoe is centered on the gunwales of the rescue canoe, one rescuer will roll the swamped canoe right-side-up. The other rescuer will catch it as it rolls around. The keel of the rescued canoe will then be sitting on the gunwales of the rescue boat, and can then be slid back into the water.


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The rescuers then gently shove the canoe off their gunwales back into the water. Be careful not to hit the swimmers.


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The canoe is then turned parallel to the rescue canoe, and both rescuers will hold the gunwales of the two canoes firmly together. The swimmers may then re-enter the canoe from the opposite side (it is best for them to do this one at a time).


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The least risky way to jump out of a canoe is by jumping off the deck (that is, jumping off the bow to the front of the canoe, or jumping off the stern to the rear).


The paddler should then swim to the center of the canoe and grab the gunwales with both hands. The hands should be positioned about a shoulder-width apart. The paddler then lifts himself up, throwing the torso across the gunwales and getting as much body weight over the keel as possible. If possible, one hand should reach across the canoe to the opposite gunwale during this motion. With the belt-line over the near gunwale, the paddler may then swing his legs aboard.


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The Pathfinder should wear a swimsuit beneath an outer layer of clothing for this requirement.
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This is surprisingly difficult in some canoes, but can be accomplished by leaning the canoe over as far as possible, then standing on the gunwale. As soon as the gunwale dips below the surface of the water, capsizing will quickly follow.
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Swim alongside the canoe and lift the gunwale back above the surface. The canoe should not sink even when it's full of water.
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This is done just as described previously, except that the canoe is almost certain to ship more water. Don't worry about it. Once you get inside, it is very possible that both gunwales will still be submerged below the surface. It is sometimes possible to get some of the water out by lifting the bow or stern as high as you can while the canoe is still upside-down. Then with a quick motion, throw the canoe higher with a twisting motion to right it.
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Removing wet clothing is more difficult than it seems it should be. It tends to cling to the body. Wear a swimsuit that stays on under the outer layer. Choose loose clothing if possible. A shirt that buttons will be easier to get off than a pull-over. Jump back into the water, take hold of a rope tied to the bow (or a grab-loop), and swim until you are in shallow water.


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Once the canoe is in shallow water, turn it on its side and continue to haul it onto the beach. This will empty it of most water. If you attempt to haul it out of the water while it is still full, you will find that it is ''very'' heavy, and it may not even be possible for you to turn it over or move it. This is why it should be turned on its side or even upside-down. Once most of the water is out of the canoe, it is a simple matter to pull it onto shore.


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# Wear a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) at all times.
# Do not drink alcohol while canoeing
# Paddle directly into or away from the wake made by power boats (broadside waves can easily capsize a canoe).
# If you capsize in still water, stay with the canoe.
# If you capsize in swift current, try to get upstream relative to the canoe so that it will not pin you on a rock. A canoe full of water easily weighs {{units|1200 kg|2.3 tons}}, and if it pins you against a rock, you are ''not'' going to lift a 1200 kg canoe off yourself. The only other available option is to drown, and that is not a very attractive option at all.
# If you find yourself swimming in a rapid, roll onto your back and float with your feet going downstream first and your toes out of the water. This will prevent your foot from catching a rock and it getting trapped. Many people have drowned as a result of foot-entrapment.
# Kneel in the bottom of the canoe in rough water. This increases the boat's stability by lowering its center of gravity, and it gives you better control of the canoe.
# Do not paddle in water that presents a greater challenge than your abilities. Do not be too embarrassed to admit that a rapid is too difficult for you. You won't be able to admit it if you drown.
# Do not paddle farther from shore than you can swim.
# Load the canoe properly so that it is balanced from bow to stern and from side to side.
# Stay away from low-head dams. They may look innocuous, but they are ''very'' dangerous. Do not approach them from upstream or from downstream.
# Never paddle alone.
# Do not paddle into tree branches, especially if they are underwater. Water will pass right through, but if you fall out of the canoe, you will be pinned against them. Moving water is very powerful. You are puny in comparison. Water moving through a hydro-electric dam can generate enough electricity to power a city (including subway trains). If water is powerful enough to move a train, it is powerful enough to hold you under water pinned to a tree branch.
# Do not stand in a canoe until you have sufficient skill and experience to do so. Many people would argue that you should ''never'' stand in a canoe, but if you have sufficient skill, standing will allow a better view of the river ahead. This can be crucial above a rapid. That said, most people do ''not'' have sufficient skill. As the instructor of this honor, it's up to you to decide how to teach this "rule."
# Don't be an idiot. If something looks dangerous, it probably is.


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For both of these situations, duct tape is the paddler's best friend.
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Land the canoe on a beach, get it in the sun, flip it upside down. Dry the affected area as best you can with whatever you have. Let the sun do the rest. Apply a strip of duct tape to the outside of the hull, covering the hole completely. Then turn the boat right-side-up again, dry the inside of the hull around the hole, and cover it with duct tape as well.


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Find a straight tree branch about {{units|2.5 cm|an inch}} in diameter and {{units|60 cm|two feet}} long. Join the two halves of the paddle together as best you can, then position the tree branch along side it. Wrap the paddle shaft and the branch with several turns of duct tape, both above and below the break. Paddle gently.


Once back from your trip, a more permanent repair can be made. Sand your paddle down right to the wood above and below the break. Drill {{units|5cm|2 inches}} straight up into the center of the paddle shaft in both directions of the break. Cut the head off of a bolt the same diameter as your hole. Use a good quality marine epoxy to glue a 4" bolt in place in that hole. Wrap fiberglass cloth around the break and epoxy it in place. Now sand down the entire paddle and varnish. You will now have a strong lasting repair on your paddle. If the break was over where you grip the paddle, you may want to consider wrapping a thin twine around the shaft to make the grip even more comfortable, this process is called frapping or serving.


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==Reference== 
[[Category:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book|{{SUBPAGENAME}}]]
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AY Honors/Canoeing/Answer Key

2022-03-30T16:10:38Z

David Delafield: Kneeling practice is based on canoe seat heights that were common until the 1980's. The decision to kneel should be based on canoe design, not simply a mantra "kneeling is safer."

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{{honor_prerequisite|category=Recreation|honor=Swimming - Intermediate}}


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This is much easier to do if the paddler gives up the idea of having dry feet. Wear a pair of sandals and wade right in. But it can also be managed without getting the feet wet. Slide the canoe's bow into the water and let the current (if there is one) push that end downstream. Hang onto the other end of the canoe (the stern) so that it does not get away. If two people are to enter the canoe, have the sternman stand with one foot on either side of the stern, steadying it with the knees. Then have the bowman enter the canoe from the right, by reaching over the canoe, grasping the left gunwale with the left hand, then setting the left foot in the center of the canoe (over the keel). Then the bowman grasps the right gunwale with the right hand and slowly shift bodyweight to the left foot, lifting the right foot over the gunwale. The bowman then carefully walks to the bow while holding onto the gunwales, finally taking position either on the bow seat, or kneeling in front of it. The bowman can then place the tip of the paddle blade into the ground (under water) to steady the canoe and keep it from floating off while the sternman enters.


The procedure for entering the canoe alone is much the same, except that the canoe will not be steadied by a companion. Concentrate on balance, and always keep your weight as centered over the keel as possible.
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It is far more difficult to enter a canoe from a dock or pier than from a beach. This is because the canoe will not sit on the bottom of the river or lake helping to steady it as people enter. Instead, paddlers must be very careful to keep their weight centered over the keel until firmly in position. Once the first person is in the boat, that person should assume a kneeling position with the knees spread as far apart as the canoe will allow. This will allow the person to easily and quickly shift his or her weight to either the left or the right to steady the canoe as the other paddler enters. The paddler should also grip the dock or pier firmly to keep the canoe from pushing away while the partner has one foot in the boat and the other on the dock.
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When landing on a beach, the bow usually drives into the bank first. The mistake most novices make at this point is to begin exiting the canoe while the stern is still upstream from the bow. Allow the current to push the stern past the bow so that the bow is facing upstream. This is what a river will want to do to the canoe anyhow, so it is better if you do it while you are still firmly seated.The bowman is usually the first to exit, by stepping over the gunwale onto shore (or into the water if that's not an issue). Once the bowman's weight is out of the canoe, the bow will rise and the canoe will likely not be in contact with the river bottom anymore. The wise sternman will take a few strokes to get the bow back onto the bank, and the helpful bowman will assist by pulling the canoe gently as well. Do NOT haul the canoe out of the water with the sternman still inside. This puts excessive strain on the keel and can easily damage the canoe.
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As with entering a canoe, exiting into a pier is far more difficult that exiting onto a beach. Position the canoe alongside the pier and hold firmly onto it. Place both hands on the pier and gently shift your weight to them, trying to not push the boat away as you do so. Lift your weight onto the pier, turn around, and sit. Then swing the legs out of the boat.


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In the diagrams below, the bow is at the top and the stern is at the bottom. The hashed lines show the path of the paddle, with the hashes themselves indicating the orientation of the paddle's blade. The unhashed directional arrows show how the canoe will move when the stroke is executed.
<gallery>
Image:Canoe stroke bow.png|Bow Stroke
Image:Canoe stroke diagonal draw.png|Diagonal draw
Image:Canoe stroke half sweep.png|Half sweep
Image:Canoe stroke j.png|J-Stroke
Image:Canoe stroke reverse half sweep.png|Reverse half sweep
Image:Canoe stroke push over.png|Push-over stroke
Image:Canoe stroke full sweep.png|Full sweep
Image:Canoe stroke combination draw j.png|Combination draw and J-stroke
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The bow stroke is executed by inserting the paddle into the water well ahead of oneself with the blade perpendicular to the keel. The paddle is then pulled through the water parallel to the keel. This stroke is most often executed by the bowman, but can be used by the sternman as well.
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The diagonal draw is a stroke used from the bow seat for gradual steering. It is made by inserting the paddle into the water well ahead and off to the side of the boat, then drawing the paddle towards the seat. A "regular" draw is similar, except that the paddle is inserted even with the seat instead of ahead.
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A half sweep is used from either the bow or the stern to turn the canoe in the direction opposite to the paddle. In other words, if the paddle is on the left, the half sweep will turn the canoe to the left and vice versa.


When executing the half sweep from the bow position, the paddle is inserted into the water near the very front of the canoe with the power face of the paddle parallel to the keel. The paddle is then ''swept'' outward until it is straight out from the bow seat. The angle of power face is maintained perpendicular to the direction in which the paddle is drawn.


When executing the half sweep from the stern position, the paddle is inserted into the water straight out from the stern seat with the power face of the paddle perpendicular to the keel. The paddle is then swept around to the stern, and as when executed from the bow, the angle of power face is maintained perpendicular to the direction in which the paddle is drawn.
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The J-stroke is so named because, when done on the port side, it resembles the letter J. It begins like a bow stroke, but towards the end the paddle is rotated and pushed away from the canoe with the power face of the paddle remaining the same throughout the stroke. This conveniently counteracts the natural tendency of the canoe to steer away from the side of the sternman's paddle.
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The reverse half sweep is a steering stroke executed from either the bow or the stern. It is executed in exactly the same fashion as the half sweep except in reverse.


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The push over stroke is more often called a pry. This stroke is designed to move the canoe sideways. It is executed by inserting the paddle into the water with the power face pointing away from the keel. The center of the paddle is rested on the gunwale while the top of the paddle is pulled toward the center of the boat. As this is done, the blade should move away from the boat.
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A full sweep is another steering stroke that can be executed from either the bow or the stern. In both instances, the paddle is inserted into the water well ahead of the paddler with the power face parallel to the keel. The paddle is then swept through a 180° arc.


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The combination draw and J-stroke is exactly what it seems to be - a combination of a draw stroke followed by a J-stroke. This stroke is only executed from the stern and is used to gradually steer the canoe to the left if made on the left side of the canoe, or to the right if made from the right side of the canoe.


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===Paddling a straight course=== 
The easiest way to paddle a straight course while keeping the paddle on the same side of the canoe is for the sternman to use the J-stroke. The bowman can paddle from either side of the canoe using bow strokes. When paddling solo, it is best to sit in the bow seat with the canoe turned around so that the stern (the back of the canoe) becomes the front. By doing this, the paddler will be positioned closer to the middle of the canoe, because the bow seat is closer to the center than the stern seat. Again, the J-stroke should be used.
===Turning===
If paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman can effect a left turn by applying simple bow strokes. The canoe will turn left. To turn right while paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman applies reverse bow strokes while the bowman applies draw strokes. Both turns can also be effected with forward and/or reverse sweeps.

===Kneeling positions=== 
The benefit to kneeling canoes has become less relevant in recent years. Newer designs, and specifically canoes designed for lakewater, feature seats that are much lower and closer to the waterline than in previous years. In these canoes, it can be nearly impossible for adult size individuals to fit their feet/shoes beneath the seat, and can lead to entrapment hazards during a capsize. The principle of lowering centre of gravity should still be employed: extending legs forward to keep knees at level of hips or lower, utilizing foot brace or canoe packs to remain secure position in your seat.

If a persons feet/shoes can be easily placed under their seat while in a kneeling position, kneeling in a canoe can provide greater stability because it lowers the center of gravity. It also allows the paddler greater control over the canoe's side-to-side tilt because the weight can be quickly shifted to the left or to the right to counter tipping. When sitting, this is more difficult to do because shifting the weight from one buttock to the other does not have much effect.


The first kneeling position is to place both knees on the bottom of the canoe and rest the buttocks against the front edge of the seat. The second kneeling position is similar, except that only one knee is on the bottom - the other knee is raised and the foot is on the bottom of the boat (as if proposing marriage). The paddler may still lean against the front edge of the seat.


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First maneuver the rescue canoe such that it is perpendicular to the swamped canoe, with either the bow or the stern of the swamped canoe near the center of the rescue canoe. Turn the swamped canoe upside down (if it is not in this position already). One rescuer may then reach over the gunwales, take hold of the bow or stern of the swamped canoe and lift it onto the gunwale. The other rescuer should counterbalance the rescue canoe while this is being done to prevent the rescue canoe from swamping as well. This is done by having the rescuer shift his or her weight to the opposite side of the rescue canoe.


Once the bow or stern is resting on the gunwales, the swimmers should help by pushing the swamped canoe up onto the gunwales of the rescue canoe (so that the gunwales of both canoes are in contact). The rescuers will also draw it across. When the swamped canoe is centered on the gunwales of the rescue canoe, one rescuer will roll the swamped canoe right-side-up. The other rescuer will catch it as it rolls around. The keel of the rescued canoe will then be sitting on the gunwales of the rescue boat, and can then be slid back into the water.


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The rescuers then gently shove the canoe off their gunwales back into the water. Be careful not to hit the swimmers.


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The canoe is then turned parallel to the rescue canoe, and both rescuers will hold the gunwales of the two canoes firmly together. The swimmers may then re-enter the canoe from the opposite side (it is best for them to do this one at a time).


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The least risky way to jump out of a canoe is by jumping off the deck (that is, jumping off the bow to the front of the canoe, or jumping off the stern to the rear).


The paddler should then swim to the center of the canoe and grab the gunwales with both hands. The hands should be positioned about a shoulder-width apart. The paddler then lifts himself up, throwing the torso across the gunwales and getting as much body weight over the keel as possible. If possible, one hand should reach across the canoe to the opposite gunwale during this motion. With the belt-line over the near gunwale, the paddler may then swing his legs aboard.


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The Pathfinder should wear a swimsuit beneath an outer layer of clothing for this requirement.
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This is surprisingly difficult in some canoes, but can be accomplished by leaning the canoe over as far as possible, then standing on the gunwale. As soon as the gunwale dips below the surface of the water, capsizing will quickly follow.
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Swim alongside the canoe and lift the gunwale back above the surface. The canoe should not sink even when it's full of water.
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This is done just as described previously, except that the canoe is almost certain to ship more water. Don't worry about it. Once you get inside, it is very possible that both gunwales will still be submerged below the surface. It is sometimes possible to get some of the water out by lifting the bow or stern as high as you can while the canoe is still upside-down. Then with a quick motion, throw the canoe higher with a twisting motion to right it.
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Removing wet clothing is more difficult than it seems it should be. It tends to cling to the body. Wear a swimsuit that stays on under the outer layer. Choose loose clothing if possible. A shirt that buttons will be easier to get off than a pull-over. Jump back into the water, take hold of a rope tied to the bow (or a grab-loop), and swim until you are in shallow water.


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Once the canoe is in shallow water, turn it on its side and continue to haul it onto the beach. This will empty it of most water. If you attempt to haul it out of the water while it is still full, you will find that it is ''very'' heavy, and it may not even be possible for you to turn it over or move it. This is why it should be turned on its side or even upside-down. Once most of the water is out of the canoe, it is a simple matter to pull it onto shore.


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# Wear a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) at all times.
# Do not drink alcohol while canoeing
# Paddle directly into or away from the wake made by power boats (broadside waves can easily capsize a canoe).
# If you capsize in still water, stay with the canoe.
# If you capsize in swift current, try to get upstream relative to the canoe so that it will not pin you on a rock. A canoe full of water easily weighs {{units|1200 kg|2.3 tons}}, and if it pins you against a rock, you are ''not'' going to lift a 1200 kg canoe off yourself. The only other available option is to drown, and that is not a very attractive option at all.
# If you find yourself swimming in a rapid, roll onto your back and float with your feet going downstream first and your toes out of the water. This will prevent your foot from catching a rock and it getting trapped. Many people have drowned as a result of foot-entrapment.
# Kneel in the bottom of the canoe in rough water. This increases the boat's stability by lowering its center of gravity, and it gives you better control of the canoe.
# Do not paddle in water that presents a greater challenge than your abilities. Do not be too embarrassed to admit that a rapid is too difficult for you. You won't be able to admit it if you drown.
# Do not paddle farther from shore than you can swim.
# Load the canoe properly so that it is balanced from bow to stern and from side to side.
# Stay away from low-head dams. They may look innocuous, but they are ''very'' dangerous. Do not approach them from upstream or from downstream.
# Never paddle alone.
# Do not paddle into tree branches, especially if they are underwater. Water will pass right through, but if you fall out of the canoe, you will be pinned against them. Moving water is very powerful. You are puny in comparison. Water moving through a hydro-electric dam can generate enough electricity to power a city (including subway trains). If water is powerful enough to move a train, it is powerful enough to hold you under water pinned to a tree branch.
# Do not stand in a canoe until you have sufficient skill and experience to do so. Many people would argue that you should ''never'' stand in a canoe, but if you have sufficient skill, standing will allow a better view of the river ahead. This can be crucial above a rapid. That said, most people do ''not'' have sufficient skill. As the instructor of this honor, it's up to you to decide how to teach this "rule."
# Don't be an idiot. If something looks dangerous, it probably is.


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For both of these situations, duct tape is the paddler's best friend.
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Land the canoe on a beach, get it in the sun, flip it upside down. Dry the affected area as best you can with whatever you have. Let the sun do the rest. Apply a strip of duct tape to the outside of the hull, covering the hole completely. Then turn the boat right-side-up again, dry the inside of the hull around the hole, and cover it with duct tape as well.


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Find a straight tree branch about {{units|2.5 cm|an inch}} in diameter and {{units|60 cm|two feet}} long. Join the two halves of the paddle together as best you can, then position the tree branch along side it. Wrap the paddle shaft and the branch with several turns of duct tape, both above and below the break. Paddle gently.


Once back from your trip, a more permanent repair can be made. Sand your paddle down right to the wood above and below the break. Drill {{units|5cm|2 inches}} straight up into the center of the paddle shaft in both directions of the break. Cut the head off of a bolt the same diameter as your hole. Use a good quality marine epoxy to glue a 4" bolt in place in that hole. Wrap fiberglass cloth around the break and epoxy it in place. Now sand down the entire paddle and varnish. You will now have a strong lasting repair on your paddle. If the break was over where you grip the paddle, you may want to consider wrapping a thin twine around the shaft to make the grip even more comfortable, this process is called frapping or serving.


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==Reference== 
[[Category:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book|{{SUBPAGENAME}}]]
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