AY Honors/Flower Culture/Answer Key - Revision history

W126jep at 16:51, 24 March 2025

2025-03-24T16:51:16Z

W126jep at 18:53, 21 July 2022

2022-07-21T18:53:19Z

W126jep at 18:46, 21 July 2022

2022-07-21T18:46:56Z

W126jep at 14:08, 7 October 2021

2021-10-07T14:08:34Z

W126jep at 15:59, 8 September 2021

2021-09-08T15:59:28Z

W126jep at 14:13, 13 August 2021

2021-08-13T14:13:30Z

W126jep: Marked this version for translation

2021-05-20T21:22:38Z

Marked this version for translation

W126jep at 21:22, 20 May 2021

2021-05-20T21:22:20Z

W126jep: Marked this version for translation

2021-04-02T19:57:40Z

Marked this version for translation

W126jep at 19:56, 2 April 2021

2021-04-02T19:56:02Z

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 ** [[w:Hotbed|Hotbed]]
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 ==References== <!--T:38-->

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 ** [[w:Drainage|Drainage]]
 ** [[w:Hotbed|Hotbed]]
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 <!-- 2. Give general instructions for making a hotbed. What is the difference between a hotbed and a cold frame? -->
-{{:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Hotbed cold frame}}
+{{:AY Honors/Hotbed cold frame}}
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 <!-- 6. Prepare the soil, fertilize, plant, and grow to maturity three different kinds of annuals. -->
 ===Soil Preparation=== <!--T:56-->
-{{:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Soil preparation}}
+{{:AY Honors/Soil preparation}}
 ===Fertilizing===
-{{:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Fertilizing}}
+{{:AY Honors/Fertilizing}}
 ===Planting===
-{{:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Planting}}
+{{:AY Honors/Planting}}
 ===Growing to Maturity===
 Water the plants after planting them, and keep them well watered afterwards. Watch for pests and take measures to control them as early as possible. You can keep the plants blooming for long periods by "dead-heading" them, that is, plucking off the blossoms as soon as they begin to wither. Dead-heading prevents the plant from producing seeds, so it will try again by making more blossoms.

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+<!-- 1. Define each of the following: -->
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 <!-- 4. Name three plant pests and tell how to control them. -->
-−
 [[Image:Aphids.jpg|right|thumb|250px|'''Aphid''' on rose foliage]]
 [[Image:Spidermites-gardenia.jpg|right|thumb|250px|'''Two-spotted mite''' ''Tetranychus urticae'' on ''Gardenia spp.'']]
 [[Image:Ponticulothrips diospyrosi.jpg|right|thumb|250px|'''Thrips''' ''Thysanoptera sp.'']]
 [[Image:Icerya-purchasi.jpg|right|thumb|250px|'''Cottony cushion scale''' ''Icerya purchasi'']]
 [[Image:Megachile rotundata.JPG|right|thumb|250px|Leaf damage caused by '''Leaf cutting bee''' ''Megachile'' sp.]]
 ===Aphids=== <!--T:52-->
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-<!-- 8. Which three plant nutrients are most important to flowering plants?  -->
+<!-- 8. Which three plant nutrients are most important to flowering plants? -->
 The three most important plant nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. NPK fertilizers are named for the chemical symbols of these elements: '''N''' for nitrogen, '''P''' for phosphorus, and '''K''' for potassium. Fertilizers are marked with the percentage of each of these nutrients. For example, a fertilizer may be marked as '''18-51-20''', which means it is 18% Nitrogen, 51% Phosphorus, and 20% Potassium. You may notice that these numbers do not add to 100% - the remainder is made up of "fillers". Fillers prevent the nutrients from clumping together and "burning" the plant.
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+<!-- 9. Identify three flowering plants adapted to each of the following conditions: -->
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 {{covid|tip=This honor can be earned during shutdown presuming:
 #A yard with a garden space

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 #You have access to seeds or can purchase and have them delivered safely to your locale.
 #You have access to soil or can purchase and have it delivered safely to your locale.}}
 <!--T:40-->
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-Annuals die each year.  Depending on your climate annuals may be for summer planting (in snow regions) or winter planting (in low deserts).  These plants produce many flowers and seeds in their life cycle to help perpetuate them.  As a result many annuals seem to grow back each year when it is more likely a new plant from a seed has grown in its place.
+Annuals die each year. Depending on your climate annuals may be for summer planting (in snow regions) or winter planting (in low deserts). These plants produce many flowers and seeds in their life cycle to help perpetuate them. As a result many annuals seem to grow back each year when it is more likely a new plant from a seed has grown in its place.
 <!--T:45-->
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 Likely to be found on new shoots and buds, aphids are soft bodied insects 1-2mm long. Often green but occasionally light-brown, and sometimes with wings, they may cover (in a colony) the complete growing tip of the plant. Aphids are most active in spring and summer and multiply at a prodigious rate feeding on the sap of the plant by piercing the plant cells via a proboscis. In large quantities they may seriously retard the growth of the plant and ruin buds. They are particularly damaging to the new shoots with subsequent damage to the emerging leaves which become malformed with much the same appearance as leaf-curl in peaches.
-Important natural enemies include the predatory ladybeetles and lacewings.  Ladybeetles can be purchased online for controlling aphids.  Insecticidal soaps are an effective chemical control, and row covers can be used early in the season to prevent infestation.
+Important natural enemies include the predatory ladybeetles and lacewings. Ladybeetles can be purchased online for controlling aphids. Insecticidal soaps are an effective chemical control, and row covers can be used early in the season to prevent infestation.
 ===Two-spotted mite=== <!--T:10-->
 Previously known as red-spider mite these arachnids prefer the underside of leaves and are difficult to see with an unaided eye. Evidence of their presence is silvering of leaves where the mites have destroyed individual leaf cells. Fine webbing and eggs on the undersides of leaves is further evidence of the presence of ''Tetranychus urticae''.
-Its natural predator, Phytoseiulus persimilis, commonly used as a biological control method, is one of many predaceous mites which prey exclusively or mainly on spider mites.  Like aphids, spider mites can be chemically controlled with insecticidal soap.
+Its natural predator, Phytoseiulus persimilis, commonly used as a biological control method, is one of many predaceous mites which prey exclusively or mainly on spider mites. Like aphids, spider mites can be chemically controlled with insecticidal soap.
 ===Thrips=== <!--T:11-->
 Thrips are slim-winged insects 1mm in length, resembling fine black slivers of wood. Preferring light-coloured blooms and often appearing in plague numbers flowers are often left looking bruised and lustreless.
 <!--T:12-->
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-Ants "farm" cottony cushion scale to harvest the honeydew they produce, so controlling ants goes a long way towards controlling this scale.  Ant baits placed near the plants work well for this.
+Ants "farm" cottony cushion scale to harvest the honeydew they produce, so controlling ants goes a long way towards controlling this scale. Ant baits placed near the plants work well for this.
 <!--T:17-->
-Adults are not effectively controlled with insecticides because the cottony egg sacs prevent the chemicals from contacting the females.  Also, these pests feed on the underside of leaves making it difficult to reach them with sprayers.
+Adults are not effectively controlled with insecticides because the cottony egg sacs prevent the chemicals from contacting the females. Also, these pests feed on the underside of leaves making it difficult to reach them with sprayers.
 <!--T:18-->
-Plant stems can be wrapped with double-sided tape which will catch this pest in its "crawly" stage.  After about a week the tape's adhesive becomes ineffective and the tape must be changed.  When the tape begins catching the crawlers, insecticidal sprays can be used, as the scale is in its larval stage.  However, natural predators are more effective than pesticides, so check for them before spraying.  Pesticides may do more harm than good by killing the predators.
+Plant stems can be wrapped with double-sided tape which will catch this pest in its "crawly" stage. After about a week the tape's adhesive becomes ineffective and the tape must be changed. When the tape begins catching the crawlers, insecticidal sprays can be used, as the scale is in its larval stage. However, natural predators are more effective than pesticides, so check for them before spraying. Pesticides may do more harm than good by killing the predators.
 ====Rose scale==== <!--T:19-->
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 <!--T:20-->
-Rose scale can be controlled by spraying with a lime-sulfur solution (one part lime, nine parts sulfur).  Application should be made in the winter or early spring.
+Rose scale can be controlled by spraying with a lime-sulfur solution (one part lime, nine parts sulfur). Application should be made in the winter or early spring.
 ===Leaf cutting bee=== <!--T:21-->
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 <!--T:24-->
-Before building a window box, decide where you will mount it.  It should be at least as wide as the window you will mount it by or it will tend to look smallish.  A window box is most easily constructed using 1"x6" pine lumber.  The box should be open on the top and can be held together with nails, screws, or for the more ambitious woodworker, with a box or dovetail joint.  It can be fitted with molding and painted to match the house.
+Before building a window box, decide where you will mount it. It should be at least as wide as the window you will mount it by or it will tend to look smallish. A window box is most easily constructed using 1"x6" pine lumber. The box should be open on the top and can be held together with nails, screws, or for the more ambitious woodworker, with a box or dovetail joint. It can be fitted with molding and painted to match the house.
 <!--T:25-->
-Once the box is put together, drill holes in the bottom to allow drainage.  Line it with plastic sheeting to keep the moist soil off the wood (for the most part), and hold the plastic in place with construction staples.  Trim the plastic, and cut holes in it where it lines up with the holes drilled in the bottom. Mount the window box on the house with brackets or screws.  Fill with potting soil and plant your flowers.
+Once the box is put together, drill holes in the bottom to allow drainage. Line it with plastic sheeting to keep the moist soil off the wood (for the most part), and hold the plastic in place with construction staples. Trim the plastic, and cut holes in it where it lines up with the holes drilled in the bottom. Mount the window box on the house with brackets or screws. Fill with potting soil and plant your flowers.
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+<!-- 6. Prepare the soil, fertilize, plant, and grow to maturity three different kinds of annuals. -->
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 {{:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Soil preparation}}
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 {{:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Planting}}
 ===Growing to Maturity===
-Water the plants after planting them, and keep them well watered afterwards.  Watch for pests and take measures to control them as early as possible.  You can keep the plants blooming for long periods by "dead-heading" them, that is, plucking off the blossoms as soon as they begin to wither.  Dead-heading prevents the plant from producing seeds, so it will try again by making more blossoms.
+Water the plants after planting them, and keep them well watered afterwards. Watch for pests and take measures to control them as early as possible. You can keep the plants blooming for long periods by "dead-heading" them, that is, plucking off the blossoms as soon as they begin to wither. Dead-heading prevents the plant from producing seeds, so it will try again by making more blossoms.
 <!--T:57-->
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-<!-- 7. Care for two or more perennial flowers growing outdoors for one season by fertilizing, watering, weeding, and treating for pests as needed. Maintain a written record with weekly entries, listing work done.  -->
+<!-- 7. Care for two or more perennial flowers growing outdoors for one season by fertilizing, watering, weeding, and treating for pests as needed. Maintain a written record with weekly entries, listing work done. -->
-You can apply the same techniques given above for annuals to care for perennials, but with perennials, there is more impetus to get it right.  If you get it right, they will come back the following year.  Indeed, if you already have a bed of perennials, there is no need to plant them at all.  Just fertilize and water them, and make sure you keep the pests at bay.  If the plant makes it through the fall in good health, chances are excellent that it will survive the winter and be healthy again in the spring.
+You can apply the same techniques given above for annuals to care for perennials, but with perennials, there is more impetus to get it right. If you get it right, they will come back the following year. Indeed, if you already have a bed of perennials, there is no need to plant them at all. Just fertilize and water them, and make sure you keep the pests at bay. If the plant makes it through the fall in good health, chances are excellent that it will survive the winter and be healthy again in the spring.
 <!--T:28-->
-Visit your perennials weekly, and for this requirement, jot down what you do.  You can write it in a notebook, or even start a blog to record your activities.
+Visit your perennials weekly, and for this requirement, jot down what you do. You can write it in a notebook, or even start a blog to record your activities.
 <!--T:59-->
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 <!-- 8. Which three plant nutrients are most important to flowering plants?  -->
-The three most important plant nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.  NPK fertilizers are named for the chemical symbols of these elements: '''N''' for nitrogen, '''P''' for phosphorus, and '''K''' for potassium.  Fertilizers are marked with the percentage of each of these nutrients.  For example, a fertilizer may be marked as '''18-51-20''', which means it is 18% Nitrogen, 51% Phosphorus, and 20% Potassium.  You may notice that these numbers do not add to 100% - the remainder is made up of "fillers".  Fillers prevent the nutrients from clumping together and "burning" the plant.
+The three most important plant nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. NPK fertilizers are named for the chemical symbols of these elements: '''N''' for nitrogen, '''P''' for phosphorus, and '''K''' for potassium. Fertilizers are marked with the percentage of each of these nutrients. For example, a fertilizer may be marked as '''18-51-20''', which means it is 18% Nitrogen, 51% Phosphorus, and 20% Potassium. You may notice that these numbers do not add to 100% - the remainder is made up of "fillers". Fillers prevent the nutrients from clumping together and "burning" the plant.
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 <!-- 10. What is the purpose of a soil test? -->
-The purpose of a soil test is to determine the nutrient content of the soil.  This will allow the gardener to select plants that will grow best in the existing soil conditions or to determine what nutrient supplements are required to amend the soil for the intended plants.
+The purpose of a soil test is to determine the nutrient content of the soil. This will allow the gardener to select plants that will grow best in the existing soil conditions or to determine what nutrient supplements are required to amend the soil for the intended plants.
 <!--T:72-->