AY Honors/Photography/Answer Key - Revision history

W126jep at 23:35, 18 July 2022

2022-07-18T23:35:26Z

W126jep: Marked this version for translation

2022-07-15T01:03:37Z

Marked this version for translation

W126jep at 01:02, 15 July 2022

2022-07-15T01:02:45Z

W126jep: - Category of AYHAB

2022-07-14T21:27:48Z

- Category of AYHAB

BoisSar at 15:12, 1 August 2021

2021-08-01T15:12:33Z

W126jep: Marked this version for translation

2021-05-05T13:04:50Z

Marked this version for translation

Show changes

W126jep at 13:04, 5 May 2021

2021-05-05T13:04:32Z

Jomegat bot: Bot: Automated import of articles * existing text overwritten *

2021-03-19T03:26:21Z

Bot: Automated import of articles *** existing text overwritten ***

Jomegat bot: Bot: Automated import of articles * existing text overwritten *

2020-12-24T00:06:49Z

Bot: Automated import of articles *** existing text overwritten ***

Show changes

Jomegat bot: Jomegat bot moved page Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Arts and Crafts/Photography to AY Honors/Photography/Answer Key: Bot: Moved page

2020-12-19T04:49:17Z

Jomegat bot moved page AY Honor Photography to AY Honor Photography Answer Key: Bot: Moved page

@@ Line 373: / Line 373: @@
 <noinclude><translate><!--T:122-->
 </noinclude>
 <!--T:78-->

@@ Line 141: / Line 141: @@
 {{CloseReq}} <!-- 5b -->
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=5c}} <!--T:31-->
-<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
+<noinclude><translate><!--T:123-->
 Direction of lighting,
 Quality of Lighting, & Rule of Thirds

@@ Line 128: / Line 128: @@
 <!--T:29-->
 Have you ever gotten pictures developed and all you see is a "blur" that was supposed to be a family member? Maybe you've taken a picture through the window of a car while its been moving. This is called camera blur and is most often caused when you're using a "fancy" SLR camera where the exposure setting is 1/125th of a second or slower. However, it can also happen when you don't practice good "camera posture" when composing your photograph.
 <!--T:30-->
@@ Line 142: / Line 141: @@
 {{CloseReq}} <!-- 5b -->
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=5c}} <!--T:31-->
-<noinclude><translate><!--T:99-->
+<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
 Direction of lighting,
 Quality of Lighting, & Rule of Thirds
 Quiz question (not really. . .) Should the sun be behind the subject you're photographing, beside the subject, or shining on the subject?
 People used to think that you could only take good pictures if the sun was behind the photographer (YOU!) shining on the subject they were taking a picture. But that's not true.
   <!--T:33-->
 For instance, if you want to take a sunset picture and want your framing subject (such as a person walking down the beach) to be a silhouette, the sun should be behind him, shining toward you (back lighting).
@@ Line 161: / Line 156: @@
 <!--T:35-->
 '''''Front lighting''''' is best when you want to see the details, like if you're taking a close-up of someone's face. A downfall is, that if the lights too bright, such as in the middle of the day, there might be "glare" in your subject.
 <!--T:36-->
 '''''Side lighting''''' is great for bringing out shapes and textures, such as a rocky mountain cliff or tree bark.
 These two photos are from Mono Lake In California. Notice how different the same rocks look depending on where the light is coming from?
 <!--T:37-->
 '''''Back lighting''''' is lighting from behind the subject, tends to hide the subject, forming a silhouette. Some good places to use back lighting are a camporee flagpole at sunset, a cow/horse grazing at sunset, or a playground after everyone has gone home for the evening.
 <!--T:38-->
@@ Line 251: / Line 243: @@
 </noinclude>
 Have you ever taken a picture of a beautiful flower or some animals but when the photo came back, you had to explain to friends "that dot is a pretty rose," and "that dot over there is a buffalo."?
 <!--T:51-->
 Filling the frame is all about making your subject (what you're taking a picture of) fill up most of the picture frame. This means standing closer to the subject than you're ordinarily used to doing and making sure there's not a lot of "green space" around your subject.
 <!--T:52-->
@@ Line 320: / Line 310: @@
 <!--T:62-->
 Don't try to use a flash when there is a reflective object directly in front of the lens. For example, a mirror or window behind your friends, or the fishtank glass between you and that shark at SeaWorld. Move off to the side diagonally a little, so that the light, when it flashes off the reflective object, won't bounce directly back to your lens, but instead will bounce into empty space beside you!
 <!--T:63-->
 Use the flash to fill in shadows. If your subject has side-lighting erasing the features on its face that you want to capture on film, use the flash to erase the shadows. BE SURE you're far enough away, or the whole picture will be blotted out!
 <!--T:64-->

@@ Line 419: / Line 419: @@
 <!--T:85-->
 Here's the more technical [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-6_process#Conventional_six_step_processing conventional six step processing].
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
 {{CloseReq}} <!-- 6b -->
 {{CloseReq}} <!-- 6 -->
 {{CloseHonorPage}}

@@ Line 108: / Line 108: @@
 <!--T:24-->
-However, cameras only have one "eye" the lens, so we have to intentionally take pictures that are "extra" 3-dimensional. One way we can do this by Framing.
+However, cameras only have one "eye", the lens, so we have to intentionally take pictures that are "extra" 3-dimensional. One way we can do this by framing.
 <!--T:25-->
@@ Line 117: / Line 117: @@
 <!--T:27-->
-Other examples of Frames include: a tree branch, rocks on a seashore, a friend or an archway.
+Other examples of frames include: a tree branch, rocks on a seashore, a friend or an archway.
 <!--T:96-->
@@ Line 136: / Line 136: @@
 *Most point-and-shoot cameras have this film/exposure time ratio "built-in" to their cameras.**
 * The best way to hold a camera in a comfortable position but rigidly is to form an imaginary tripod with the camera pressed against your forehead and your elbows against your body. Take a breath, partially exhale, and gently press the shutter button.
-* Be careful not to get any of your fingers or the camera chord in front of the flash or the lens!!
+* Be careful not to get any of your fingers or the camera cord in front of the flash or the lens!!
 <!--T:98-->

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=1}}
 <noinclude><translate></noinclude>
-<!-- 1. Explain the principles of camera construction, what the camera lens does, the effect of light on light-sensitive film, and the action of developers.  -->
+<!-- 1. Explain the principles of camera construction, what the camera lens does, the effect of light on light-sensitive film, and the action of developers. -->
 ===Camera Construction===
 [[Image:Pinhole-camera.svg|thumb|right|200px|Principle of a pinhole camera. Light rays from an object pass through a small hole to form an image.]]
@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=2}}
 <noinclude><translate></noinclude>
-<!-- 2. What is meant by the "speed" of the film? What does ASA/ISO mean?  -->
+<!-- 2. What is meant by the "speed" of the film? What does ASA/ISO mean? -->
 '''[[W:Film speed|Film speed]]''' is the measure of a photographic film's sensitivity to light. Stock with lower sensitivity (lower ISO speed rating) requires a longer exposure and is thus called a slow film, while stock with higher sensitivity (higher ISO speed rating) can shoot the same scene with a shorter exposure and is called a fast film.
@@ Line 52: / Line 52: @@
 <!--T:14-->
-In the ISO linear scale, which corresponds to the older '''[[W:American Standards Association|ASA]]''' scale, doubling the speed of a film (that is, halving the amount of light that is necessary to expose the film) implies doubling the numeric value that designates the film speed.  In the ISO logarithmic scale, which corresponds to the older '''[[W:DIN|DIN]]''' scale, doubling the speed of a film implies adding 3° to the numeric value that designates the film speed.  For example, a film rated ISO&nbsp;200/24° is twice as sensitive as a film rated ISO&nbsp;100/21°.
+In the ISO linear scale, which corresponds to the older '''[[W:American Standards Association|ASA]]''' scale, doubling the speed of a film (that is, halving the amount of light that is necessary to expose the film) implies doubling the numeric value that designates the film speed. In the ISO logarithmic scale, which corresponds to the older '''[[W:DIN|DIN]]''' scale, doubling the speed of a film implies adding 3° to the numeric value that designates the film speed. For example, a film rated ISO&nbsp;200/24° is twice as sensitive as a film rated ISO&nbsp;100/21°.
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
@@ Line 58: / Line 58: @@
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=3}}
 <noinclude><translate></noinclude>
-<!-- 3. How are shutter speed, lens aperture, and film speed related?  -->
+<!-- 3. How are shutter speed, lens aperture, and film speed related? -->
 [[Image:Shutter speed waterfall.gif|thumb|right|300px|Example of photos taken at different shutter speeds]]
 '''[[W:Shutter speed|Shutter speed]]''' is the time for which the shutter is held open during the taking of a photograph to allow light to reach the film or image sensor (in a digital camera).
@@ Line 75: / Line 75: @@
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=4}}
 <noinclude><translate></noinclude>
-<!-- 4. Give the principal uses of photography.  -->
+<!-- 4. Give the principal uses of photography. -->
-'''Photography'''  {{IPA|}} [fә'tɑgrәfi:],[foʊ'tɑgrәfi:]
+'''Photography''' {{IPA|}} [fә'tɑgrәfi:],[foʊ'tɑgrәfi:]
 is the process of recording pictures by means of capturing light on a light-sensitive medium, such as a film or sensor. Light patterns reflected or emitted from objects expose a sensitive chemical or electronic medium during a timed exposure, usually through a photographic lens in a device known as a camera that also stores the resulting information chemically or electronically.
@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 <!--T:21-->
-Photography gained the interest of  many scientists and artists from its inception. Scientists have used photography to record and study movements, such as [[W:Eadweard Muybridge|Eadweard Muybridge]]'s study of human and animal locomotion in 1887. Artists are equally interested by these aspects but also try to explore avenues other than the photo-mechanical representation of reality, such as the [[W:pictorialist|pictorialist]] movement. Military, police and security forces use photography for surveillance, recognition and data storage. Photography is used to preserve memories of favorites and as a source of entertainment.
+Photography gained the interest of many scientists and artists from its inception. Scientists have used photography to record and study movements, such as [[W:Eadweard Muybridge|Eadweard Muybridge]]'s study of human and animal locomotion in 1887. Artists are equally interested by these aspects but also try to explore avenues other than the photo-mechanical representation of reality, such as the [[W:pictorialist|pictorialist]] movement. Military, police and security forces use photography for surveillance, recognition and data storage. Photography is used to preserve memories of favorites and as a source of entertainment.
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
@@ Line 89: / Line 89: @@
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=5}}
 <noinclude><translate></noinclude>
-<!-- 5. Take print or slide pictures illustrating at least eight of the following techniques. Use comparison pictures for illustration:  -->
+<!-- 5. Take print or slide pictures illustrating at least eight of the following techniques. Use comparison pictures for illustration: -->
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=5a}}
@@ Line 285: / Line 285: @@
 <!--T:61-->
-Most flashes should be used no closer to a subject than 6 feet. and more than 20 feet away. Any closer and it will "wash out" your subject, (depending on flash), and any farther away, the light won't even reach.  For example: Have you ever seen people use a flash at a football game, or in a large stadium in hopes of getting photos of the people on the field? The flash won't help because its too far away!
+Most flashes should be used no closer to a subject than 6 feet. and more than 20 feet away. Any closer and it will "wash out" your subject, (depending on flash), and any farther away, the light won't even reach. For example: Have you ever seen people use a flash at a football game, or in a large stadium in hopes of getting photos of the people on the field? The flash won't help because its too far away!
 <!--T:62-->
@@ Line 292: / Line 292: @@
 <!--T:63-->
-Use the flash to fill in shadows. If your subject has side-lighting erasing the features on its face that you want to capture on film, use the flash to erase the shadows. BE SURE you're far enough away, or the whol picture will be blotted out!
+Use the flash to fill in shadows. If your subject has side-lighting erasing the features on its face that you want to capture on film, use the flash to erase the shadows. BE SURE you're far enough away, or the whole picture will be blotted out!
@@ Line 299: / Line 299: @@
 <!--T:65-->
-*  Try using a flash when your friends are in a dark cave or room. Arrange them 6 feet away from your camera, then take 2 pictures. One with a flash and one without. Notice the difference. Now take one with your friend(s) only 3 feet away. What happened?
+* Try using a flash when your friends are in a dark cave or room. Arrange them 6 feet away from your camera, then take 2 pictures. One with a flash and one without. Notice the difference. Now take one with your friend(s) only 3 feet away. What happened?
 <!--T:66-->
-*  At your next campout, just before sunset grab some friends and have them stand in front of camp, with the sunlight coming from one side, casting shadows on their faces. Take 2 pictures. One with fill-in flash, and one without. What was the difference?
+* At your next campout, just before sunset grab some friends and have them stand in front of camp, with the sunlight coming from one side, casting shadows on their faces. Take 2 pictures. One with fill-in flash, and one without. What was the difference?
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
@@ Line 309: / Line 309: @@
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=6}}
 <noinclude><translate></noinclude>
-<!-- 6. Do one of the following:  -->
+<!-- 6. Do one of the following: -->
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=6a}}
@@ Line 342: / Line 342: @@
 <!--T:75-->
 '''Negative film'''<br>
-Due to happenstance, many photographic processes create negative images: the chemicals involved react when exposed to light, and during developing these exposed chemicals are retained and become opaque while the unexposed chemicals are washed away. However, when a negative image is created from a negative image (just like multiplying two [[W:negative numbers|negative numbers]] in mathematics) a positive image results  (see [[W:Color print film|Color print film]], [[W:C-41 process|C-41 process]]). This makes most chemical based photography a two step process. These are called '''negative''', films and processes. Special films and development processes have been devised such that positive images can be created directly from film, these are called ''positive'', or ''slide'', or (perhaps confusingly) ''reversal'' film (see [[W:Transparency (photography)|Transparency]], [[W:Black and white reversal film|Black and white reversal film]], [[W:E-6 process|E-6 process]]).
+Due to happenstance, many photographic processes create negative images: the chemicals involved react when exposed to light, and during developing these exposed chemicals are retained and become opaque while the unexposed chemicals are washed away. However, when a negative image is created from a negative image (just like multiplying two [[W:negative numbers|negative numbers]] in mathematics) a positive image results (see [[W:Color print film|Color print film]], [[W:C-41 process|C-41 process]]). This makes most chemical based photography a two step process. These are called '''negative''', films and processes. Special films and development processes have been devised such that positive images can be created directly from film, these are called ''positive'', or ''slide'', or (perhaps confusingly) ''reversal'' film (see [[W:Transparency (photography)|Transparency]], [[W:Black and white reversal film|Black and white reversal film]], [[W:E-6 process|E-6 process]]).
 <noinclude></translate></noinclude>
@@ Line 362: / Line 362: @@
 <!--T:81-->
-Eventually, a practical method using a 'subtractive' method was the [[W:Kodachrome|Kodachrome]] process, the first commercially successful amateur color film, introduced in 1935. It produced much brighter color transparencies. The '''Kodachrome''' [[W:K-14 process|K-14 developing process]] is very complicated and requires technicians with extensive chemistry training, as well as large machinery which is extremely difficult to operate.  This complexity discourages use by home amateurs or small laboratories. In the early 1990s Kodak offered the "K-Lab" process to small labs in an attempt to increase the availability of the K-14 process, but ultimately this was not successful; with the final two K-Lab -equipped labs (Horiuchi Color in Tokyo and Kodak's own plant in Lausanne) shutting down and Kodak discontinuing the "B-I-B" (bag-in-box) K-14 chemistry required for the K-Lab.
+Eventually, a practical method using a 'subtractive' method was the [[W:Kodachrome|Kodachrome]] process, the first commercially successful amateur color film, introduced in 1935. It produced much brighter color transparencies. The '''Kodachrome''' [[W:K-14 process|K-14 developing process]] is very complicated and requires technicians with extensive chemistry training, as well as large machinery which is extremely difficult to operate. This complexity discourages use by home amateurs or small laboratories. In the early 1990s Kodak offered the "K-Lab" process to small labs in an attempt to increase the availability of the K-14 process, but ultimately this was not successful; with the final two K-Lab -equipped labs (Horiuchi Color in Tokyo and Kodak's own plant in Lausanne) shutting down and Kodak discontinuing the "B-I-B" (bag-in-box) K-14 chemistry required for the K-Lab.
 <!--T:82-->

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-<languages /><br />
+{{HonorSubpage}}
 <section begin="Body" />
 {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=1}}
@@ Line 401: / Line 387: @@
 {{CloseReq}} <!-- 6b -->
 {{CloseReq}} <!-- 6 -->
-<section end="Body" />
+{{CloseHonorPage}}

AY Honors/Photography/Answer Key - Revision history

W126jep at 23:35, 18 July 2022

W126jep: Marked this version for translation

W126jep at 01:02, 15 July 2022

W126jep: - Category of AYHAB

BoisSar at 15:12, 1 August 2021

W126jep: Marked this version for translation

W126jep at 13:04, 5 May 2021

Jomegat bot: Bot: Automated import of articles *** existing text overwritten ***

Jomegat bot: Bot: Automated import of articles *** existing text overwritten ***

Jomegat bot: Jomegat bot moved page Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Arts and Crafts/Photography to AY Honors/Photography/Answer Key: Bot: Moved page

Jomegat bot: Bot: Automated import of articles * existing text overwritten *

Jomegat bot: Bot: Automated import of articles * existing text overwritten *