AY Honors/Abseiling/Answer Key/pt-br

Rapel

Nível de Habilidade

1

Ano

2001

Version

21.08.2026

Autoridade de Aprovação

Conferência Geral

 

Section One - THEORY.

 

Safety

1

Complete the following:

a

Relacione e explique as regras de segurança

b

Explique a placa de sinalização: "perigo de queda"

2

Explicar o uso dos seguintes nós:

a

Nó de fita

Ring Bend (Water Knot, Tape Knot)

Uso: The water knot (or tape knot) is a knot frequently used in climbing for joining two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling. The ends should be left at least three inches long and the knot should be "set" by tightening it with full body weight. The ends can be taped or lightly sewn to the standing parts to help prevent them from creeping back into the knot. Inspect the knot before each use. Como fazer: To tie, first form an overhand knot in one end and then follow it with the other end, feeding in the opposite direction.

b

Nó borboleta

Alpine butterfly

Uso: The Butterfly Loop has a high breaking strength and is regarded by mountaineers as one of the strongest knots to attach climbers to the middle of a rope, such that they have room to move around even when the main rope goes tight, and they can be supported in either direction from the main rope. The loop is typically attached to a climbing harness by carabiner. It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the worn section is used for the center of the loop.

c

Figura de oito

Figure Eight
Uso: This knot is ideal for keeping the end of a rope from running out of tackle or pulley. Como fazer: Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part. Pass end under, then up through the loop. Draw up tight.

d

Pescador duplo

Double Fisherman's Knot

Uso: Joining thin, stiff or slippery lines, backing up critical knots such as the Figure-of-eight loop or Figure-of-eight follow through. Use the double fisherman's knot to tie together two ropes of unequal sizes. This knot and the triple fisherman's knot are the variations used most often in rock climbing, but other uses include search and rescue. The primary use of this knot in rock climbing is to form high strength loops of cord for connecting pieces of the rock climber's protection system. It is favoured for being compact, and for arranging the line of force in a straight line through the knot. Another common use for this knot is to back up a critical knot, such as a harness tie-in knot or single-line rappel rigs. In this use, the running end is tied around the standing end of the rope, so that it cannot slip back through the knot. Como fazer: See illustration. Draw up tight.

e

Prussik

Prusik knot

Uso: A Prusik (aka Prussik or Prussic) is a friction hitch used in climbing, canyoneering, caving, rope rescue and by arborists to grab a rope (sometimes referred to as a rope-grab). The term Prusik is used both for the knot, for the loops of cord, and for the action (to prusik). A Prusik rope is a circular loop with a circumference of 20 to 100 cm depending on its intended use. Two Prusik ropes are tied to another rope which is anchored above. When the Prusik knot is under tension, it grabs the rope to which it is tied. When not under tension, it is easily moved. The climber places one foot into each loop, and shifts all of his or her weight to one of them, releasing the tension on the other. The rope without tension is then slid upwards on the vertical rope. The climber then shifts his or her weight to the other loop and slides the first one up. This is repeated until the rope has been ascended. Prusiks will work around two ropes, even two ropes of different diameters. Prusiks provide a high-strength and relatively fail-safe (i.e., they will slip before damaging the rope or breaking) attachment, and are used in some rope-rescue techniques. Prusiks are good to use in hauling systems where multiple rope-grabs may be needed, and where mechanical rope-grabs are not available. Although the Prusik Climb technique may be called old-school by some, the US Army still includes it in its annual Best Ranger competition. Rangers in the competition routinely make it up a 90 foot rope in under a minute. Como fazer: The Prusik is tied by wrapping the prusik loop around the rope a number of times (depending on the materials, but usually 3-5 times), and then back through itself, forming a barrel around the rope, with a tail hanging out the middle. When the tail is weighted the turns tighten around the main rope and grab. When weight is removed the loop can be slid along the rope by placing a hand directly on the barrel and pushing. The trick is, if it grabs well, then it is hard to slide along the rope. Breaking the Prusik free from the rope after it has been weighted can be difficult, and is easiest done by pushing the bow, being the loop of cord which runs from the top wrap, over the knot to the bottom wrap, along the tail a little. This loosens the grip of the hitch and makes movement easier. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Locked while holding tension. Slides readily without tension.

f

Lais de Guia

Bowline

Uso: This knot doesn't jam or slip when tied properly. It can be tied around a person's waist and used to lift him, because the loop will not tighten under load. In sailing, the bowline is used to tie a halyard to a sail head. Como fazer: Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end through loop. Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the loop again. Draw up tight.

 

Estabelece

3

Desenhe um diagrama para descidas por rapel nos seguinte casos:

a

Técnica de corda única

b

Rapel positivo e negativo

4

Saiba identificar o caminho para ancoragem segura em várias circunstancias. Exemplo: árvores, pedras, obstáculos.

 

Amarração das cordas

5

Explique os vários apelos verbais.

6

Explique os princípios de amarração e três métodos usados, cite as vantagens e desvantagens de cada método:

a

Amarração no corpo

b

Amarração mecânica

c

Amarração em uma base

 

Cuidados com equipamentos

7

Liste as regras para cuidar das cordas.

• a. Keep the rope clean.
• b. Always coil a rope before storing it.
• c. Make sure wet rope is dry before coiling it.
• d. Return rope to its proper place after using it.

8

Explique a diferença entre cordas dinâmicas e cordas estáticas.

9

Conhecer os tipos corretos de equipamentos necessários para rapel.

10

Conhecer a melhor maneira para armazenar sua corda. Exemplo: enrolando e encurtando.

 

Freios

11 a.

a. Conhecer cada dispositivo usado para diferentes descidas com rapel.

11 b.

b. Citar as razões pelas quais você escolheu este dispositivo. Exemplo: Tempo, segurança, calor, versatilidade. etc.

 

Primeiros socorros

12

Saber como tratar um paciente nos seguintes casos:

a

Entorse

AY Honors/First aid/Sprains

b

Concussão

AY Honors/First aid/Concussion

c

Hipotermia

Hypothermia is caused by continued exposure to low or rapidly falling temperatures, cold moisture, snow, or ice. Those exposed to low temperatures for extended periods may suffer ill effects, even if they are well protected by clothing, because cold affects the body systems slowly, almost without notice. As the body cools, there are several stages of progressive discomfort and disability. he first symptom is shivering, which is an attempt to generate heat by repeated contractions of surface muscles. This is followed by a feeling of listlessness, indifference, and drowsiness. Unconsciousness can follow quickly. Shock becomes evident as the victim’s eyes assume a glassy stare, respiration becomes slow and shallow, and the pulse is weak or absent. As the body temperature drops even lower, peripheral circulation decreases and the extremities become susceptible to freezing. Finally, death results as the core temperature of the body approaches 80°F (27°C). The steps for treatment of hypothermia are as follows:

1. Carefully observe respiratory effort and heart beat; CPR may be required while the warming process is underway.
2. Rewarm the victim as soon as possible. It may be necessary to treat other injuries before the victim can be moved to a warmer place. Severe bleeding must be controlled and fractures splinted over clothing before the victim is moved.
3. Replace wet or frozen clothing and remove anything that constricts the victim’s arms, legs, or fingers, interfering with circulation.
4. If the victim is inside a warm place and is conscious, the most effective method of warming is immersion in a tub of warm (100° to 105°F or 38° to 41°C) water. The water should be warm to the elbow - never hot. Observe closely for signs of respiratory failure and cardiac arrest (rewarming shock). Rewarming shock can be minimized by warming the body trunk before the limbs to prevent vasodilation in the extremities with subsequent shock due to blood volume shifts.
5. If a tub is not available, apply external heat to both sides of the victim. Natural body heat (skin to skin) from two rescuers is the best method. This is called “buddy warming.” If this is not practical, use hot water bottles or an electric rewarming blanket. Do not place the blanket or bottles next to bare skin, however, and be careful to monitor the temperature of the artificial heat source, since the victim is very susceptible to burn injury. Because the victim is unable to generate adequate body heat, placement under a blanket or in a sleeping bag is not sufficient treatment.
6. If the victim is conscious, give warm liquids to drink. Never give alcoholic beverages or allow the victim to smoke.
7. Dry the victim thoroughly if water is used for rewarming.
8. As soon as possible, transfer the victim to a definitive care facility. Be alert for the signs of respiratory and cardiac arrest during transfer, and keep the victim warm.

d

Fratura

Splints

An essential part of the first-aid treatment is immobilizing the injured part with splints so that the sharp ends of broken bones won’t move around and cause further damage to nerves, blood vessels, or vital organs. Splints are also used to immobilize severely injured joints or muscles and to prevent the enlargement of extensive wounds.

Before you can use a splint, you need to have a general understanding of the use of splints. In an emergency, almost any firm object or material can be used as a splint. Such things as umbrellas, canes, tent pegs, sticks, oars, paddles, spars, wire, leather, boards, pillows, heavy clothing, corrugated cardboard, and folded newspapers can be used as splints. A fractured leg may sometimes be splinted by fastening it securely to the uninjured leg. Splints, whether ready-made or improvised, must meet the following requirements:

• Be light in weight, but still be strong and fairly rigid.
• Be long enough to reach the joints above and below the fracture.
• Be wide enough so the bandages used to hold them in place won’t pinch the injured part.
• Be well padded on the sides that touch the body. If they’re not properly padded, they won’t fit well and won’t adequately immobilize the injured part.
• To improvise the padding for a splint, use articles of clothing, bandages, cotton, blankets, or any other soft material.
• If the victim is wearing heavy clothes, apply the splint on the outside, allowing the clothing to serve as at least part of the required padding.

Although splints should be applied snugly, never apply them tight enough to interfere with the circulation of the blood. When applying splints to an arm or a leg, try to leave the fingers or toes exposed. If the tips of the fingers or toes become blue or cold, you will know that the splints or bandages are too tight. You should examine a splinted part approximately every half-hour, and loosen the fastenings if circulation appears to be cut off. Remember that any injured part is likely to swell, and splints or bandages that are all right when applied may be too tight later.

To secure the limb to the splint, belts, neckerchiefs, rope, or any suitable material may be used. If possible, tie the limb at two places above and two places below the break. Leave the treatment of other types of fractures, such as jaw, ribs, and spine, to medical personnel. Never try to move a person who might have a fractured spine or neck. Moving such a person could cause permanent paralysis. Don’t attempt to reset bones.

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/First aid/Forearm splint/pt-br

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/First aid/Upper arm splint/pt-br

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/First aid/Kneecap splint/pt-br

Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/First aid/Ankle splint/pt-br

e

Choque

Shock is a medical condition where the delivery of oxygen and nutrients is insufficient to meet the body's needs. The main carrier of oxygen and nutrients in the body is the blood, so anytime there is a loss of blood, there is a risk of shock. Shock is a life-threatening emergency.

Recovery position

First aid treatment of shock includes:

• Immediate reassurance and comforting the victim if conscious.
• If alone, go for help. If not, send someone to go for help and someone stay with the victim.
• Ensure that the airway is clear and check for breathing. Place the victim in the recovery position if possible.
• Attempt to stop any obvious bleeding.
• Cover the victim with a blanket or jacket, but not too thick or it may cause a dangerous drop in blood pressure.
• Do not give a drink. Moisten lips if requested.
• Prepare for cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR).
• Give as much information as possible when the ambulance arrives.

 

Resgate em penhasco

13

Explique como proceder nos seguintes resgates:

a

Usando um sistema de roldanas

b

Como mudar de método durante o resgate

 

SESSÃO DOIS - PRÁTICA

1

Ser aprovado no exame da DSA com aproveitamento maior que 60%.

 

Avaliação verbal

2

Responder as questões dos seguintes tópicos:

a

Uso de pelo menos seis nós usados em rapel

b

Quais são, e dar o significado das chamadas escaladas padrão

c

Uso de vários tipos de freios

d

Dê sete regras para fixar a corda

e

Dê sete regas de segurança

f

Saiba primeiros socorros e sobre como tratar pacientes

g

Dê cinco maneiras de detectar falhas na corda

 

Teste prático

3

Execute as seguintes tarefas:

a

Faça seis nós diferentes usados em rapel

b

Configure uma instalação de corda única e outra para penhasco (paredão)

c

Simule um resgate em penhasco sendo testemunhado por seu instrutor

d

Enrolar e diminuir uma corda corretamente

e

Demonstrar métodos de amarração

 

Rapel

4

De uma altura minima de 10 metros, complete dois rapéis com cada um dos seguintes equipamentos. Conhecer como uni-los à corda.

a

Descensor simples

b

Freio 8 huit antibrulure

c

Freio oito resgate

d

Figura de oito

e

Descensor de barras

f

Freio ATC

g

Freio oito convencionais

h

Mosquetão

5

Explicar como fazer o rapel básico e o de ombro, para uso emergencial.

6

Ser capaz de usar o prussik em um penhasco de 10 metros.

See Also

AY Honor Abseiling - Instructor

References